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Monday, May 31, 2021

Photo By Valerie Millett

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Sunrise Canyon” by Valerie Millett. Location: Arizona.

“I did a through-hike of the Fork Trail to explore a little unknown slot canyon several miles into the canyon,” says Millett. “This was part of an overnight backpacking trip. Just about a half a mile past this point, I’d fall and injure myself and have to be airlifted out of the canyon with several injuries.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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An important guideline to follow is to prevent mergers when you construct a composition. Mergers appear when photographers ignore subject overlap. When subjects converge and become one, the viewer of the photo misses out on seeing portions of the subject that are partially hidden. For instance, when two four-legged animals merge, it’s often difficult to differentiate the legs of one subject from the other. This creates a distraction as the viewer has to decipher the composition rather than appreciate it for what it is. Mergers can also occur when a subject appears along the edge of the frame and part of it is chopped off. An additional way mergers appear in photos is when there’s a tonal merger. When like light or dark colors overlap one another, it’s difficult to discern one from the other. Here’s a look at these different mergers to help you avoid them in your photos.

Subject Merger

When important elements overlap, it’s known as a subject merger. The prototypical example that always comes to mind is a tree growing out of someone’s head. Note the image of the photographer with the sandstone formation radiating out the top of his hat. While it may bring a smile, photographically, it’s best to avoid these situations.

In the side-by-side comparison of the two bighorn rams, the left-side image shows the rams overlapping. In the photo on the right side, they’re separated and each can be made out very easily. The reason for most images with merged subjects is the photographer gets easily caught up in the fact that multiple subjects appear in the same frame. Wouldn’t it be great to capture more than one in a single photo. They become blinded by excitement and fire away. I suggest you make a single photo of the merged subjects as it may be the best you get, but then relax and wait for the subjects to separate so both can be recognized as separate entities.

Edge Merger

When subjects are awkwardly chopped into fractional parts of their whole along the perimeter of an image, this is referred to as an edge merger. Edge mergers are a bit more difficult to avoid because while you keep an eye on the main subject elsewhere in the image, it’s not easy to also scan the edges. Your eye must remain very active as you study both the central area and edges.

Sometimes it’s easier to clone edge mergers out of an image. Another strategy is to zoom to a wider focal length and when you optimize the image, crop it so the borders are void of mergers. Avoid going too wide in that you don’t want to sacrifice a lot of pixels, especially if you want to print the photo. Unless the subjects comprise a sufficient amount of real estate, the end result will suffer. In the photo of the three sandhill cranes, I remained cognizant of two potential mergers: I waited for the birds to separate in addition to zooming a touch wider so if they flapped their wings up and down, all parts of the birds would remain in the composition.

Tone Merger

When subjects blend in tonality, which doesn’t allow the subjects to separate, it’s called a tone merger. Tone mergers can occur because color complements overlap in addition to exposure overlaps. For instance, bright on bright makes it harder to distinguish one subject from the other. This also happens when complementary colors overlap. For instance, yellow and orange are adjacent colors on the color wheel and blend into one another in a composition.

In the image of the skylined lion, he pops off the page since blue and yellow are opposite each other on the color wheel. In other photos of him when he was in the grasses, the lion doesn’t pop off the page the way the skylined one does. To get the photo of him on the kopje, we were patient as he looked as if he may want to get to a higher vantage point to hunt.

You’d think it would be easy to avoid mergers, but because photographers are zeroed in on the main subject, details are overlooked. I encourage you to study the entire viewfinder for any and all mergers before you press the shutter. It takes practice and patience, but it will net you better images in the end and your editing time will be cut in half!

To learn more about this subject, join me on a photo to safari to Tanzania. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com to get more information.

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Sunday, May 30, 2021

Photo By Robert Henderson

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Red Colobus Critique” by Robert Henderson. Location: Jozani Forest, Zanzibar Island, Tanzania.

“The arboreal leaf-eating Zanzibar red colobus monkeys in the Jozani Forrest are habituated to the presence of humans, but it doesn’t stop them stop them looking a little horrified as they’re commenting to each other about my camera technique,” says Henderson. “They watched me for a few moments and then went back to their normal foraging and play.”

Canon EOS 7D Mark II, Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 IS II USM lens at 400mm. Exposure: 1/200 sec., f/6.3, ISO 8000.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Saturday, May 29, 2021

Photo By Gary Fua

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Charmed” by Gary Fua. Location: Bonsai Rock, Lake Tahoe, Nevada.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Friday, May 28, 2021

Congratulations to Douglas Croft for winning the Contrasting Seasons Assignment with the image, “Ahwahnee Meadow.” See more of Croft’s photography at www.douglascroftimages.com.

View the winning image and a selection of submissions in the gallery below. And be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

[See image gallery at www.outdoorphotographer.com]

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Photo By James Day

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Brotherly Love” by James Day. Location: Lake Clark National Park, Alaska.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Thursday, May 27, 2021

Photo By David Connel

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Dearly Beloved” by David Connel. Location: Florida.

“I spent a few days photographing at a central Florida bird rookery,” says Connel. “I’d train my camera on any nest that had interesting bird behavior. When these great egrets intertwined their necks, I knew I had a special pair-bonding image. The egret in the background gave it a comical look as if presiding over a wedding ceremony.”

Exposure: 1/1250 sec., f/5, ISO 500, 280mm.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photo By Gerry Groeber

A rare foggy morning at Watson Lake, located in Arizona’s high country, is the backdrop of this shot. At almost a mile high in Prescott, Arizona, Watson Lake is undoubtedly one of the most unique lakes in the state. It’s one of two reservoirs in the Granite Dells that was formed in the early 1900s. Surrounded by towering granite cliffs, it has an almost otherworldly appearance.

When we get fog in Arizona, landscape photographers rush to gather our gear and head out to the field. Typically, we get these fog events in between our seasons. On this November morning, our long, hot summer was coming to an end, cooler weather had started to move into the region, and an early-morning fog had rolled in overnight. Waking early, I grabbed my already-packed gear and headed straight out to the lake. Fog events like this happen every couple of years, so I knew I needed to grab this rare opportunity as this was something I had wanted to photograph at this lake for some time.

When I arrived at Watson Lake, the visibility was about 25 yards or less. The large granite boulders appeared like islands peeking through the fog in another world. The typical scouting for light and shadows doesn’t apply when shooting in these conditions. Instead, I began searching for a composition, shooting many incredible scenes. After about half an hour, I settled in a small bay nestled between two large granite cliffs. The image composition didn’t come to me immediately. Finally, after shooting from ground level, it appeared: the “Ghost Tree.”

I set up my tripod as low as possible, almost touching the water. Using one of my favorite techniques of compression, I pulled the distant shore toward me using a telephoto focal length of 160mm and calculated the hyperfocal distance. The scene was set. I also used my camera’s mirror-up setting to reduce any camera shake.

I stayed in this location for about 45 minutes, watching the fog and wood ducks come and go. Truly an incredible morning at Watson Lake. 

Nikon D750, AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR at 160mm, Manfrotto tripod. Exposure: 1/160 sec., Æ’/16, ISO 800.

See more of Gerry Groeber’s work at gerrygroeber.com.

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Wednesday, May 26, 2021

Photo By Heather Nicole

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Amazing Africa” by Heather Nicole. Location: Kenya.

“While on safari in Kenya, my group of photographers was lucky enough to capture a perfect African sunset as the sun slowly dropped behind an iconic acacia tree,” says Nicole.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Wildflowers are one of the more challenging subjects in nature photography to capture successfully. There are many aspects to learn, but it’s all the more rewarding when the outcome is positive. I have made many mistakes over the years photographing wildflowers, and I hope to pass on some of the wisdom I’ve accumulated with these wildflower photography tips.

Image illustrating wildflower photography tips for shooting at sunset.

Mt. Rainier from the Backside During Wildflower Season, Mt. Rainier National Park, Washington. The backside of Mt. Rainier is seen from the wildflower meadows of Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground during a summer sunset.

Our goal is to capture the vibrancy and color of wildflowers within the broader landscape. When we look at pictures of wildflowers, often the first thing that catches our attention is that the color seems to “pop” off the page. When composing, it’s essential to think of how color, shape and light interact with one another and arrange your compositions to enhance those interactions for the strongest visual impact.

Timing For Peak Wildflower Blooms

An essential part of the process is doing research to identify when and where you’ll find wildflowers at peak bloom. I begin by using the internet to search where wildflower meadows can be found. Many books and websites provide very detailed specifics about times and places to capture beautifully blooming wildflowers. Reviewing historical data over the last few years of when wildflowers were at peak bloom can be constructive.

Keep in mind that peak times only last about two to three weeks, but this can vary from year to year. When I’m doing this research, I search the internet for wildflower forums and wildflower “trip reports.” Consider looking for an active forum where like-minded people share information, images and tips about specific wildflower hikes. Even better are sites that provide or link to downloadable GPS tracks to locations and hikes.

The fluctuation of peak season for wildflower varies quite a bit, so make sure to combine your research from various sources. Contacting local guides or rangers at your destination is beneficial, too. They can be an incredible information resource for out-of-the-way locations that are harder to find.

Image of wildflowers in Oregon.

Wildflower Peak in Jefferson Park, Oregon. Wildflowers fill the alpine meadows of Jefferson Park during summer season in the state of Oregon. Look for water elements that can be used to include reflections in your composition.

In my experience, when I’ve combined multiple sources for research and checked recent trip reports, I’ve ended up having a successful season of wildflower photography.

Key Points For Research

  • Check on the web for wildflower peak times using multiple sources.
  • Look for trip reports on the location you are visiting. For example, Washington Trails Association has daily reports from most wildflower trails in the region.
  • Contact local park rangers.
  • Explore photo forums for inspiration and possible locations.
  • Try to pre-visualize compositions based on images you’ve seen that you admire. Ask yourself how you can improve upon those images.
  • Apps like Photographer’s Ephemeris or PhotoPills help to scout sun and moon locations and sunrise and sunset times.

Favorable Weather For Wildlife Photography

When it comes to ideal weather conditions, there are two schools of thought. Some photographers like to shoot in overcast conditions to capture the maximum saturation of color from the wildflowers. The second school aims to photograph wildflowers during sunrise and sunset, with the goal being to shoot the wildflowers with vibrant low light, sidelight or backlight. Both types of conditions work well. The choice depends on how you want the wildflowers to interact with the light.

Generally, I like to shoot during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset to get the best results from the sunlight. Though more challenging in terms of exposure than overcast conditions, the warm light adds to the overall color impact. If you can photograph wildflowers with partly cloudy conditions, you can wait for the sun to be positioned behind the clouds. We’ll talk more about lighting later.

Without a doubt, the most difficult aspect of the weather for wildflower photography is the amount of wind. If possible, I always try not to photograph wildflowers when the weather calls for windy conditions. The slightest wind movement can cause your flowers to blur and prevent detail and sharpness in the image. One technique to avoid blurry images if the wind is a problem is to increase your shutter speed. You might also need to boost your ISO to do this, and although a higher ISO will potentially result in greater noise, it’s more important to get a sharp image. The other option is to time your pictures with breaks in the wind or to come back during calmer conditions.

Image of a rainbow and wildflowers.

Rainbow and Blue Bonnets, Lake Travis, Spicewood, Texas. Change of weather and temperatures cause frequent rainbows during wildflower season in Texas.

Equipment For Photographing Wildflowers

The right equipment will help you achieve success with wildflower photography. You don’t need to spend a lot on costly gear, but there are a few essential items to have.

A tripod is a part of the process and should be used at all times when photographing wildflowers. The stability of a tripod helps you to re-frame and precisely refine your composition as needed. A sturdy tripod also helps to minimize vibrations, enhancing the aforementioned, all-important sharpness.

When choosing a tripod, remember that lighter tripods can be less stable, making them prone to slight movement during the picture-taking process. You may also want a tripod without a center post or with a center post that’s removable, which will help you get low to the ground for scenic compositions with wildflowers in the foreground or for macro photography work.

Lens selection is also important. Over the last 12 years of photographing wildflowers, I have used several different lenses. Through experience, I have found that lenses that are faster and wider make a big difference in the image’s overall impact. A fast lens, such as an Æ’/2.8, collects more light at its larger apertures, allowing you to increase your shutter speed and reduce the chance of blurred images, and lessens the need to crank up your ISO.

I generally set my aperture in the range of Æ’/13 to Æ’/16 unless the wind is blowing. In those situations, I shoot the foreground flowers at a larger aperture so I can use a faster shutter speed without pushing the ISO too far. Then I shoot another image for the background at Æ’/16 and combine the two in post-processing. I only recommend using this technique if the wind is so strong that a higher ISO would introduce too much noise in the overall image.

When it comes to focal length and aesthetics, while there are scenes that lend themselves well to a telephoto perspective, I most often use wide lenses, typically 24mm and wider. The broad view allows more creative composition options. Although this is a personal choice, I like to include as much of the foreground flowers as possible in my images.

Image of a tree among wildflowers.

The Solo Tree Amongst a Sea of Purple. Lupine blooms during a peak spring season in Ennis, Texas.

Composing Wildflower Scenes

Using quality equipment and the right lenses leads us to the next important component of successful wildflower photography. Because the elements and textures are so bold in wildflower scenes, it’s easy to include too much. The tendency is to be overwhelmed in wildflower meadows and try to include as much as possible within the frame. The final results are often chaotic and unorganized. Consider this when assessing what to include in the overall composition. It’s always better to have less and be more specific when it comes to the elements you include in your framing. Simplifying the design will go a long way to creating an image that is cohesive and pleasing.

Start with the camera off the tripod and walk around, looking through the camera’s viewfinder for possible compositions. Without the tripod’s constraints, it’s much simpler to move about and see what captures your eye. Remember that your tripod’s height is adjustable, so change your perspective and look for compositions high and low.

To make your image more interesting, position the tripod so that you can see a flow of wildflowers that leads into the background. If the camera angle is too low, one can only see the foreground flowers. If the camera is too high, the foreground wildflowers will appear far away and lose their impact. I find that positioning the tripod around my knee’s height and tilting the camera at a 45-degree angle down often provides the best chance for success.

The camera’s focus should be roughly one-third of the way into the image or where the foreground wildflowers begin, with an aperture of Æ’/11 to Æ’/16 to achieve maximum sharpness. It is essential to make sure that foreground wildflowers are tack sharp. Take several test shots and review them on your camera’s LCD.

When looking for wildflowers to include in your composition, be mindful of the aesthetics of the wildflowers themselves, and only include those that are healthy and vibrant. Look for patterns in the foreground wildflowers that balance in terms of weight, shape and color. By “weight,” I mean the abundance of wildflower blooms on each side of the image. My goal is to find an even distribution of wildflowers on each side.

Think of balancing the flowers like a fulcrum or playground seesaw. Balancing applies to the color of the flowers as well. Frame the scene so that the dominant colors of the flowers have even weight on either side.

Impactful wildflower images tell a story. One of the most effective ways to achieve this is through layering. Layering within a composition refers to including several elements within the landscape from foreground to background. Look for areas with plenty of flowers that flow through the frame and avoid including areas with gaps where there are no flowers. A gap in the flowers breaks the flow that connects the foreground with the background. In my compositions, I like to convey a sense that the wildflowers are endless and continue all the way to the distant mountain peaks or horizon.

Image of converging canola in the Palouse.

Converging Canola in the Palouse, Idaho. Converging spring canola leads the eye to a lone tree in the Palouse.

The process of framing should start wide and include elements that give the viewer a sense of the location. Try photographing the scene from both horizontal and vertical orientations. With more sweeping views, look to include multiple layers. Elements such as streams, creeks, lakes and ponds may provide excellent reflections and add overall depth to the image. If there are mountains in the scene’s background, try framing the peaks reflecting in a water element, if possible.

Once I am satisfied capturing perspectives on a grand scale using my wide-angle lenses, I begin to narrow my field of view. It helps to train the eye to look for the pictures within the picture. Using a combination of a telephoto lens and shallow depth of field, I look for compositions with a soft, surreal, painterly look. Creating a shallow depth of field with an aperture like Æ’/5.6 or larger can blur the background and focus attention on the foreground wildflowers. Using a telephoto lens allows you to focus on shape and color, including only the essential elements, and also compresses the overall scene, simplifying the composition. Try to get creative with sidelight or backlight to express even more mood.

Color Harmony In Wildflower Photography

One of the most critical aspects of composition is color harmony. Because wildflowers are very saturated by nature, too much color can be overwhelming and diminish the overall impact. When shooting wildflowers, I consider the interaction of warm and cool tones. The color wheel is an excellent tool for learning to use color harmony. Pay particular attention to the complementary colors on the color wheel. Nature does a great job on its own with complementary colors—for example, wildflowers with purple petals and a yellow center.

Understanding the color wheel and complementary colors can help you frame all the elements in your composition with a pleasing balance. Avoid the domination of only warm or cool tones in any image region. Each color has its own visual weight, and having too much or not enough of that color on either side of the composition can divert the viewer’s eye, causing the viewer to get stuck on one part of the image rather than allowing their eyes to flow throughout the entire frame. For example, lupine wildflowers have a purple color and thus a cool tone. So, when I photograph lupine, I will complement their cool color with a warmer-hued flower such as Indian paintbrush, which is red. An image with a mix of warm and cool colors will usually be more visually appealing.

Image illustrating color harmony in wildflower photography.

Wildflower Meadows in the Foggy Mist, Naches Peak, Mt. Rainier National Park. Morning fog and mist add mystery to the color-packed alpine meadows during wildflower season on Mt. Rainier.

Quality Of Light

The presence of the light in your composition can make or break a photo. You can execute all the previously mentioned tips to perfection, but the quality of light is the one element that truly makes an image stand out. Time of day and the direction of light will have a big impact on the success of your wildflower photographs.

Resist the temptation to shoot wildflowers during the middle of the day when sunlight is strongest. The problem is that mid-day light typically means harsh contrast, which results in images with dark shadows and hot highlights that detract from the wildflowers’ color. I find it’s best to photograph flowers early in the morning at sunrise or in the late afternoon near sunset. The few moments as the sun rises and sets provide the best low-angle light and showcase the flowers in a warm, soft glow that draws the viewers’ attention.

Another good time to photograph wildflowers is when the sun is not present on overcast days. The wildflowers will be cast in soft, cool light, and the even contrast of the light across the scene makes for a pleasing color balance. So, make sure to be aware of the light direction. If used in the right way, it can make all the difference.

Image of wildflowers at sunrise.

Sunrise Glory from the Top of Chinook Pass, Mt. Rainier National Park. Morning mist and fog evaporate as the sunrise makes an appearance and spotlights the wildflowers.

Be Prepared

For successful wildflower photographs, it helps to do your research and have the right equipment. Being aware of your camera settings and composition creates images that are full of detail—and easier to process. Don’t be afraid to be creative, think outside the box and create something visually that hasn’t been seen before. Combining the above recommendations with the right light increases the odds of capturing memorable wildflower images.

It is important to respect the fragility of wildflower meadows and obey trail signs that ask you not to walk in the meadows. Respect for the environment will ensure future generations can partake in the beauty that surrounds us.

Lastly, remember to dress appropriately for the adventure. Dress in layers, as alpine and desert environments where wildflowers are common can have dramatic weather and temperature changes throughout the day. Most of all, have fun because you get to see nature at its best. 


See more of Kevin McNeal’s work at kevinmcnealphotography.com.

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Tuesday, May 25, 2021

Photo By Melody Revnak

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Shasta Reflection” by Melody Revnak. Location: Siskiyou County, California.

“This view from Siskiyou Lake of Mount Shasta is one of the best,” says Revnak. “I’ve been to this spot many times to capture the reflection of Mount Shasta on the lake, and many times prior the wind came up, but this evening was perfect!”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Monday, May 24, 2021

Photo By Wendy Gedack

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Spirt of Adventure” by Wendy Gedack. Location: Mount Rainier National Park, Washington.

“It’s any wonder my name means wanderer, LOL,” says Gedack. “I love to explore, especially in nature, and experience the beauty of our world. I was blessed with the opportunity to take a mental break and travel to the northwest. Mount Rainier has been a bucket list photography trip for a long time. It didn’t disappoint and I think I’ve found a new love for the wildflowers in that region! May you take time to explore the tiny miracles that desire no attention!”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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When I first got bit by the photography bug, I was hooked for life. Although it was a long time from the day I took my first picture until the time I purchased an SLR, I was always aware of the bite’s power. As I got more and more into the art, I viewed the world as though I had a viewfinder glued to my eye. I used telephoto eyes to pick out small slices of the landscape, animals in the distance and sections of buildings that were architecturally gorgeous. I used my wide-angle eyes to incorporate entire skylines and envision what they’d look like as a print. To this day, I do the same. Whether I’m in my kitchen cooking dinner or leading a safari to Tanzania, my awareness of light, composition and color is heightened thanks to photography. For this, I’m grateful as it allows me to appreciate all I witness more than most non-photographers. So where am I going with this?

In your everyday life, utilize your photo eyes. Look at your surroundings as if you, too, have a viewfinder to your eye. If the light you view is gorgeous, capture images in your inner psyche. Think about the depth of field and come up with the proper aperture for the “photo.” What about the composition? Would you grab a wide or go with a tele zoom? Would it be a vertical or horizontal? How about going a step further—what would the composition be if you captured both a vertical and horizontal?

The more often you do this, the faster you’ll be able to capture images of a fleeting animal before it runs away. Think about the shots you missed in the past because you were five seconds too late. If you practice utilizing your photo eyes, you’ll be less likely to miss the shot next time you’re out in the field with your camera since you already created the composition in your head as you approach the subject. Therefore, you’ll have the correct lens in hand and the shot will be yours. Image 

If the subject doesn’t flee, what else can you do to improve the image you just made? If you’re able to fire off a single image, that becomes your placeholder—it’s your only image of that subject you created, therefore it’s your best. Now, think about how you can make it better. What if you move a few feet to the left or right to eliminate the bright background? What if you use a different aperture to narrow the depth of field? What if you attach a flash to your camera to add fill light and a highlight to the eye? What if you got down lower so the background is more out of focus?

These are real-time questions to ponder when you’re out in the field. The key to take from this is to not restrict answering these variables to real-time scenarios. As you utilize your photo eyes with an imaginary viewfinder to your eye, answer these questions so they become innate. The more often you do, the more often you’ll come back with killer images when the real camera is in your hand and subjects are encountered.

To learn more about this subject, join me on a photo safari to Tanzania. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com to get more information.

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Sunday, May 23, 2021

Photo By Jake Pineda

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Cathedral Rock” by Jake Pineda. Location: Sedona, Arizona.

“A mirrored reflection of Sedona’s iconic Cathedral Rock at Crescent Moon Ranch Park,” describes Pineda.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Saturday, May 22, 2021

Photo By d.mitler

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Dawning of the Minarets” by d.mitler. Location: California.

“One of my favorite scenes from the High Sierra: the Minarets glowing in the first light of day,” says d.mitler. “A truly magical experience to bathe in the beauty and stillness of this rugged mountain oasis, far from civilization, yet close to the beating heart of life.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Friday, May 21, 2021

Photo By Thomas Nicholson

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Sunset in the Tetons” by Thomas Nicholson. Location: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.

“The last rays of sun hit the Grand Teton mountains with flowering Balsamroot in the foreground,” describes Nicholson.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Thursday, May 20, 2021

Photo By Archie Tucker

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Cotton Candy Skies Over Four Peaks” by Archie Tucker. Location: Arizona.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Image of Santorini in Greece illustrating the use of a wide angle lens to capture scenic vista.

Santorini. In daytime, the village of Santorini, Greece, is serene and beautiful. Just after sunset, the city lights begin to come to life with a warm glow, and the sky takes a softer light as it presents its most impressive colors. I chose the 24mm range of my mid-range zoom to capture the golden sunset, beautiful village and dramatic clouds.

Creating an expressive photo collection from your adventures requires more than merely the technical elements of photography. To take better travel photos, start with advance planning and strategic decisions on what to bring. You’ll enjoy a well-rounded and more authentic experience by doing a little homework, getting to know your subjects, and conceptualizing how best to photograph them. The places that you travel to and people who you meet become an integral part of the photographic experience by providing fun and enriching memories for life.

An exceptional travel destination deserves your best efforts in order to capture special and memorable photographs. These are my top tips to take better travel photos.

Lens Choice For Travel Photography

Lens choice will help define your subject. I generally consider a wide-angle lens for cityscapes and landscapes. This lens allows me to capture interesting things that may happen within the frame, such as vivid streaks of light from passing cars or the stretch of stunning clouds during a long exposure.

Image illustrating when to use a telephoto lens for travel photography.

Palouse. Choices, choices. Wide-angle lens or telephoto zoom to capture a sweeping vista? I chose to shoot with a Nikon D500 and the AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR to isolate part of the vast rolling hills, shooting late in the day for definition of shadow and light in the Palouse. At 410mm on the DX-format D500, my equivalent focal length was 615mm.

A fast mid-range zoom lens can be handy for candid shots—and just about everything. I’ve used it for street photography and detail shots for a more striking image. A telephoto zoom is the perfect lens for bringing in the detail or for isolating a subject or just bringing in the subject a little closer. I used one for isolating and composing the vast landscape of the Palouse, creating a scene where the composition becomes more personal to the viewer. This lens is equally great to photograph travel portraits. It’s an excellent lens for capturing reflections on cars and windows. Each lens has a unique function that it does well, making it beneficial to carry a few basic lenses when you are hitting the road. If you have a zoom lens, bring it.

A fisheye lens is by far one of the most fun lenses I’ve used. With my Nikon Z 7, I use an AF-S FISHEYE NIKKOR 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5E ED zoom lens, which means I can use it for circular images as well as for rectangular. Either way, it’s a different look and can add a little spice to your travel images. With the lens pointed straight up toward the sky, I can capture a 360-degree range of fascinating architecture or colorful trees in a national forest. This lens gives you a highly unique perspective that isn’t possible with other lenses. If you enjoy the pursuit of original and highly creative photos, consider adding this lens to your gear bag.

Photo illustrating a creative technique for framing a subject in your photos.

Transamerica. I felt that a creative composition of shooting through the bench to capture the Transamerica building and pier lights in San Francisco would make for a far more interesting story. I thought this would be especially nice during the blue hour for the rich color in the sky and balanced light throughout the composition.

If you want to boil it all down to a single lens for a day, a 50mm lens is an excellent choice. They are fast, small lenses with tremendous potential. I have to admit, when I first got one, I was disappointed as it just seemed it wasn’t very interesting compared to other lens choices. However, I found that the true value and beauty of this lens is how you use it. If I get close to my subject, and I’m shooting using a wide aperture, the background will be softly blurred, and with any points of light in the subject, the bokeh is exquisite. This is a great walk-around lens in the city because I don’t generally need a tripod. It’s also great to use with large glass prisms for creative and special effects. It’s a light lens with a fun factor benefit, offering multiple uses.

Filters For Travel Photography

When I come across a great subject, I consider how I can best capture it. This includes anything from lens choice to a shooting technique that will enhance the subject. I try to put myself at the time and place that allows the best opportunity for good light or the best clouds, if any. Water features provide a chance for capture as a soft blur; cloud movement creates a look as if the clouds had just been painted across the sky. Conveying a sense of motion brings the photo alive, moving the photo from a snapshot into more of a work of art. You can also do this with the help of a filter.

My filter gear includes a variety of neutral density filters, which allow me to control light. I use these either to better balance light or for creative control, holding back light to extend shutter speed. I carry a 3-stop, 6-stop and 15-stop ND filter, plus a 2-stop graduated and 2-stop reverse graduated ND filter.

Sometimes a polarizer is needed, so I keep that handy as well. My go-to filter for a creative punch of color is a Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue polarizer that can really make a nice difference with certain shots. Experiment and be bold.

Image illustrating the use of a neutral density filter to permit a long exposure.

Valensole Plain. Upon arrival in the lavender fields early one morning, the clouds filled the sky with a gentle motion that inspired me to use my 15-stop neutral density filter. During the course of six minutes, the clouds took on magical patterns, providing an interesting backdrop for an aging farmhouse and colorful lavender.

Try Adding A Sense Of Motion

One of my favorite shooting techniques involves a little planning and patience, but that strategy results in the creation of most of my favorite images. I like to make images that convey a sense of motion. This could be shooting streaks of light and colorful blurs from vehicles that pass by over the course of several seconds. Or it might mean setting up my camera to record voluminous cloud formations that are evolving over a five- to six-minute time span. I find it fascinating to record what happens over time in a single image. It changes the dynamics of a shot and creates unique, one-of-a-kind imagery. Plus, it has the benefit of removing people from your shot in busy cityscapes.

I look for potential opportunities for interesting weather during my travels and plan to make the most of any clouds. For shots that range from several seconds to several minutes, I use a cable release to prevent camera shake as I press the shutter. You can also think about both freezing the action and recording the action at a slower pace. This will give you a variety of options to portray the subject. Using both a wide-angle lens and a zoom lens and freezing/blurring the action makes for endless very different and exciting visual narratives.

Another option to work with when you have a great subject is to shoot video or time-lapse. Even short sequences can add to your travel story. In some locations, I’ll set up my camera for time-lapse and shoot with my second camera to get detail shots or other shots of interest. I absolutely love the slow-motion video setting in my Nikon Z cameras. Just a few seconds of recording can really come together for an interesting story.

An alternative for fascinating visual narratives is to shoot multiple exposures. This can be as simple as a double exposure that tells twice the story or something as fluid as 10 exposures creating an image that takes on an entirely new meaning. This technique can be especially engaging as you blend silhouettes with interesting textures, such as fall leaves. I used to do this in post; however, most cameras can capture and blend multiple exposures, creating wonderful photographic opportunities.

City lights at night in Venice illustrate the creative effects of shooting during the "blue" hour.

Venice. The blue hour is one of my favorite times to shoot. The light is balanced in the scene, and the color of the sky takes on a rich blue color. City lights begin to glow, adding drama to the composition.

Shooting After Dark

Shooting at night can be magical, providing many compositions with striking light and shadows. I try to take advantage of every low-light opportunity. A familiar and busy daytime location may be devoid of people at night, and a cityscape lit with dramatic light can take your street photography to the next level.

When I find locations that look promising for a night shoot, I will make a snapshot, noting the address to revisit. Or, after my sunset and “blue hour” shots, I may set out to explore a city. This is a great time to use the Picture Control Monochrome setting in my Nikon Z 7 (or a similar setting on your camera). The photos look vintage in black-and-white, and this style can make an image feel timeless.

On the flip side, I’ll arrive one to two hours before sunrise to take advantage of pre-dawn light. I shot the lifeguard towers in Miami Beach while it was still dark. I knew the towers would be illuminated over time by the city lights, and with a multiple-minute exposure, it would look amazing. How to focus in the dark? I pointed my flashlight at the tower, focused on that point of light, and let my camera record the magic during several minutes of time. The resulting image becomes surreal: no people, the rough ocean waves are smooth, and clouds are painted across the sky during my several-minute shot. Rest later—shoot when you get the best light conditions.

Illustration of using ambient light to take better travel photos.

Miami Beach. I wanted to try something different with a subject that is well photographed by anyone traveling in the Miami Beach area. I used the illumination of the city lights behind me over a four-minute period to provide ambient lighting for the lifeguard tower. Interestingly, the tower was basically invisible through the lens. Experimentation is one of the keys to creativity. I love trying something different and seeing what happens!

Find A New Angle

Changing your perspective can have a big impact on your photographs. It’s easy to shoot from eye level—how much more interesting might it be to place the camera at ground level or shoot from an elevated position? For those close-to-the-ground shots, I like using a Platypod, which is basically a flat tripod. It’s the easiest tripod to carry with you while traveling, and, depending on your subject, it might be the only tripod you’ll need. I use it with a Really Right Stuff ballhead, making my camera totally secure. I like this ground-level vantage point paired with a wide-angle or fisheye lens to capture all the interesting detail throughout the image.

Alternatively, I’ll look for rooftops or hilltops to capture interesting vistas. One of my favorite images came from ending up smack in front of a beautiful 15th-century cathedral; however, it was all too much for my wide-angle lens, and it wasn’t telling the story I had in mind. With a little scouting, I found a rooftop café that provided the perfect view not only of the cathedral but also the square in front and the lovely evening sky beyond. This picture in Santiago de Cuba has always been one of my favorites.

Image illustrating finding a unique perspective on a subject.

Santiago de Cuba. During scouting, I found myself at my destination but way too close to capture the story I had envisioned for this beautiful 15th-century cathedral. After a little research, I noticed a nearby rooftop café that provided the perfect vantage point. From this high-perspective location, I could include the cathedral and a dramatic sky after sunset.

Consider Infrared

I’m a big fan of infrared photography, and I’ll bring my infrared camera for the chance to shoot a familiar subject in an innovative way. Infrared is phenomenal with landscapes. Leaves are highly reflective of infrared light and show up as nearly white, while textured surfaces such as tree trunks remain dark. This is the camera I’ll use when in South Beach, Florida, to capture the Art Deco cityscape with pure white palm fronds resting across my composition. There is a big difference between black-and-white infrared imagery and traditional black-and-white shots. With infrared, foliage becomes more pronounced and dramatic, and there is a surreal factor that engages the viewer and draws them in. I had one of my Nikon Z cameras converted to infrared, and, depending on my travel destination, I’ll often pack it to bring with me.

What To Carry

As for my backpack, I have been using the Kashmir from f-stop Gear, which was designed for woman photographers. The advantage—especially now that I’ve switched to mirrorless—is that everything fits in, and I don’t have to be concerned as much about weight, although this camera bag distributes weight evenly. Depending on the location I’m shooting, I may pack a much smaller bag for day trips to walking locations within a city, where I’ll only carry the basics.

For inclement weather, I’ll pack a rain jacket and bring a scarf. I have a rain cover for my backpack, too. This protects my gear and lets me shoot in the rain, which can be full of rich colors and abundant reflections.

Other gear that I carry includes a small tactical flashlight called Fenix PD35. This flashlight operates using a USB rechargeable battery, making it a lightweight powerhouse at 1,000 lumens. I use this flashlight for establishing focus in the dark, light-painting a variety of subjects or simply lighting my way in the dark.

One last gear tip: I never travel without lens hoods. They keep rain off the lens while I protect the lens and camera with a simple rain cover. Rain can be your friend when you are properly prepared.

Image illustrating a tip to photograph architectural details as part of a travel portfolio.

Cuban Architecture. Changing my perspective allows me try to envision a great subject in a variety of ways. I fell in love with the historic architecture on this street. I simply pointed the camera up to take advantage of the aged signage and detail in this shot.

Planning

In planning a trip, I tend to do a lot of research using various apps. On my iPhone, I have the feature-rich PhotoPills app, which helps determine the best time of day for my shots, such as the golden hour or blue hour and even moon phases. I refer to weather apps often, so I know of any conditions that might produce intriguing cloud patterns or storm fronts to shoot. The Photographer’ss Ephemeris app (TPE) has a nice color forecast for sunsets and sunrises. I also like photo location apps like Google Earth/Maps, PhotoHound, Locationscout or Explorest for finding interesting locations to add to my travel destinations. I use tide charts for shooting beach locations and love the ease of at-a-glance wind direction and speed from Windy. For calculating long exposures with my 15-stop neutral density filters, I use an app called NDTimer.

You’ll find that with a little planning and creativity, you can create dynamic imagery that gives the viewer a sense of the experience of being there in the moment. And you’ll have fun doing it! 


Deborah Sandidge is a professional photographer and Nikon Ambassador specializing in world travel. See more of her work at deborahsandidge.com.

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