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Sunday, April 30, 2023

Photo By Sergio Rojo

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Ghosts of Dawn” by Sergio Rojo. Location: Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Washington.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Saturday, April 29, 2023

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Sparks Lake Clearing Fog Reflection” by Beth Young. Location: Sparks Lake, Deschutes County, Oregon.

“We arrived at Sparks Lake in anticipation of photographing landscapes of the surrounding mountains and lake at sunrise only to be socked in with a dense layer of clouds with low visibility,” explains Young. “After a brief rain, however, the fog began to lift and mirrored the topography of the peaks in the distance.”

See more of Beth Young’s photography at www.optimalfocusphotography.com.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Friday, April 28, 2023

Photo By Christopher Mills

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Tranquil” by Christopher Mills. Location: Haystack Mountain, Aroostook County, Maine.

“The Milky Way from Haystack Mountain as a car lights up Rt. 163 down below,” describes Mills.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photo By Ross Stone

Congratulations to Ross Stone for winning the Go Wide Assignment with the image, “Black Mountain Pond.”

Be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

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Thursday, April 27, 2023

Photo By Denis Dessoliers

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Lotus” by Denis Dessoliers. Location: William Land Park, Sacramento, California.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Wednesday, April 26, 2023

Photo By Jeremy Janus

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Warm Clouds and Cool Trees” by Jeremy Janus. Location: Standley Lake in Colorado.

“When we were driving home from the mountains in the early afternoon, I looked over at clouds coming over the front range and knew it would be an amazing sunset,” explains Janus. “I decided to drive over to Standley Lake in the later afternoon to set up for sunset. The cloud formations were absolutely amazing, and the way the sun cut the mountains created warm tones on the clouds and the cool tones sat on the back end of the lake. This is one of my favorite sunsets I have ever shot.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Tuesday, April 25, 2023

Photo By Jody Partin

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Winning Balance Beam Routine” by Jody Partin. Location: Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, Maryland.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Monday, April 24, 2023

Photo By Caleb Lawson

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Follow Me” by Caleb Lawson. Location: Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.

“A bison calf follows his mother’s footsteps in the Lamar Valley of Yellowstone National Park,” describes Lawson.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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To obtain excellent-quality, tack-sharp nature images, I pose two scenarios: Wildlife: Is the animal still or moving? How big in the frame does the subject appear? What focal length is attached to the camera? Is a tripod or beanbag utilized? How much light is there? Landscapes: Is there a stiff wind? Do you need a lot of depth of field? For a seascape, are the waves high and fierce? Is a macro shot part of the plan? What time of day is it? What is the contrast range?

As you pondered the above questions, did you think about variables that could impact each answer? If you did, I applaud you! Read through the rest of this tip to test your photographic acuity. If you weren’t able to come up with answers, I implore you to thoroughly study this week’s tip so you can more consistently capture critically sharp photos. Read it, reread it and then apply the information.

Technique is a key factor that governs a photo’s sharpness. Regardless of the conditions or gear, if you apply the proper technique to obtain absolute sharpness, in working with the limitations of your gear, you’ll come back with the sharpest possible photos. This being said and with all aspects of technique being equal, better gear will outperform inferior equipment. But sharper lenses, higher ISO capability bodies, more frames per second and faster minimum apertures are worthless if your technique is poor. Top-of-the-line equipment will consistently net soft edges if you’re sloppy.

Mechanical vs. Creative

The mechanical aspects of photography are significantly more teachable than the creative ones. That’s the good news since this week’s tip focuses on good mechanics. Creativity can be taught with regard to rules of composition, light, subject placement and more, but it doesn’t change the fact some people are more right-brained as opposed to left. Being right-brained is associated with creativity while left-brained folks are more analytical. The following concepts are more related to the left brain characteristics of photography. But a photographer with the greatest right brain creative potential will go nowhere if he or she can’t acquire tack-sharp photos.   

Reread the top paragraph and think more deeply about the questions I posed. Each mandates certain settings for the camera and/or lens. Many have common sense answers, but the left brain has to know where on the camera the controls exist, how to alter them, when to make changes and to what degree the change needs to be. For the sake of consistency, let’s assume that in every hypothetical that follows, all top-of-the-line gear is used, all lenses and filters are immaculately clean and each photographer’s enthusiasm is high and equal. 

The first question I asked in the wildlife scenario above was is the animal still or moving? Logic dictates if an object is motionless as opposed to moving, it should be easier to acquire a sharp photo. The caveat is there are technical variables with which the photographer must be familiar. Just because an animal is still, there’s no guarantee the image will be tack-sharp.

Other important aspects are what focus point is active and where in the viewfinder it’s located, and where on the animal is the main focus point positioned. If the focus square is on the body but the subject’s eyes are 12 inches nearer to the camera, dependent upon the focal length, aperture and proximity of the subject, there’s a high risk the body will be sharp but not the eyes. Let’s focus on subject movement. It’s essential you research your subject to find out what shutter speeds are needed to stop a given animal’s action. More variables impact the end result based on the aperture and focal length of the lens. Always be sure the ACTIVE focus point resides over the most critical point determined by the location of the most important part of the animal.

The next two questions were how big in the frame does the subject appear and what focal length is attached to the camera? I bundled these two as they go hand in hand. In most cases, the focal length helps determine the size of the subject. The larger in the frame the animal appears, the more depth of field is needed to ensure everything is in focus. But a huge variable is what position is the animal to you. If it’s perpendicular versus facing you, it’s two different scenarios, each with its own needs. A much wider aperture can be used when it’s perpendicular compared to facing straight on.

The last two questions were is a tripod or beanbag utilized and how much light is there? If a tripod or beanbag is used and the animal is still, slower shutter speeds can be used that prevent camera movement or photographer shake. You can engage the stabilization mode on the lens or camera body, but if the subject suddenly turns or shakes, even with everything stabilized, chances are the subject will be soft. Brighter light appears on clear days versus cloudy ones, so faster shutter speeds can be dialed in. An additional caveat is at what ISO the camera is set and how it acts as a variable with regard to given shutter speeds. 

Landscapes

Is the wind blowing hard? Do you need a lot of depth of field? For a seascape, are the waves high and fierce? Is a macro shot part of the plan? What time of day is it? What’s the contrast range? Much of the information I shared in the wildlife section can be applied to landscapes. Many of the correlations overlap and share common sense. For instance, is the wind blowing hard? Conceptually, if an animal is active, a faster shutter speed is needed to freeze that motion. If it’s a windy sunrise in the mountains, even though the wildflowers are peak, you may not be able to capture a pristine landscape. If the goal is a tack-sharp image from foreground to background and you need to freeze the movement of the flowers, what shutter speed is required? As you work toward detecting it, you discover the ISO must be raised. If you assumed the ISO did need to be raised, congratulations! You took control of that situation to determine the end result!

Depth of field is dependent upon two key factors—the aperture at which the image is created and the focal length of the lens. If you need full depth, use as wide a lens that allows the composition to be created. Stop down the lens to a small aperture to obtain maximum depth of field. Another variable is at what distance the photographer places the focus point. Become familiar with a hyperfocal chart that explains this concept in detail. In order to take command of the end result, experiment with the focal length, chosen aperture, where the focus point is placed and at what distance the lens is set to maximize hyperfocal distance.

For a seascape, are the waves high and fierce? If you arrive at high tide and the waves are rolling and very active, if the end result is to freeze all the drops, use a higher ISO and open the aperture to get a fast shutter. Caveats come if you need a lot of depth of field necessitating a small aperture and if the light level is low. Depending on those variables, a fast-enough shutter may not be attainable. These concepts are essential to learn if you want to take command of the end result.

Overall, factors that impact sharpness are the proper use of a stable tripod, the working aperture, the given shutter speed in combination with the given aperture, the focal length and how it’s used, the ISO at which the image is photographed and the amount and quality of the light. Adopt the proper technique for every future shutter click and your number of tack sharp keepers will grow exponentially.

Feel free to explore more of my photography at my website: www.russburdenphotography.com or visit my SmugMug page: https://russburden.smugmug.com.

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Sunday, April 23, 2023

Photo By Ryan Cairl

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Early Wake-Up Call” by Ryan Cairl.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Saturday, April 22, 2023

Photo By Mark Koskulitz

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Yosemite Falls” by Mark Koskulitz. Location: Yosemite National Park, California.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Friday, April 21, 2023

Photo By Hi il Lee

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Line” by Hi il Lee. Location: New Mexico.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Thursday, April 20, 2023

Photo By Christopher Baker

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Morning Bath” by Christopher Baker. Location: Alabama

“A low-angle view of a Canada goose as it dunks its head in the water as part of its morning bath ritual,” describes Baker.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photo of two tripods

Let’s be honest: getting your tripod level can be a tedious, time-consuming process. It can also make or break an outdoor photo.

Missing out on great light as you fumble with a tripod’s legs while trying to get the horizon straight can be extremely frustrating, which is why the new Benro Theta is so innovative. The world’s first auto-leveling travel tripod, Benro Theta is smart, sleek and a real photo saver.

With a traditional tripod, photographers need to manually adjust each leg based on the terrain they’re shooting on. If you’ve ever shot on a snowy or rocky slope this can be a challenge. Furthermore, you need to keep your eye on a sometimes hard-to-see bubble level on the tripod. In dim conditions such as just before sunrise or when shooting astrophotography at night, you might need to break out a flashlight to reference the bubble level, which can disturb a scene or be a distraction to other photographers.

Even when you think you have all your tripod’s legs lined up properly, you might need to further adjust the ball head to get your camera level. All of this takes up valuable time, which is where Benro Theta comes in.

Photo of a camera on a tripod

Getting Level

Powered by a removable battery module, auto leveling on the Theta begins with just a touch of a button on the module under the ball head. Once automatic leveling starts, this smart tripod will figure out how many legs and lengths need to be adjusted to reach the fastest leveling position. It’s actually kind of incredible to watch the tripod’s legs automatically adjust themselves as Theta levels itself.

Even more importantly for photographers though is that Theta’s auto-leveling feature frees you up so you can focus on your photography and not fussing around with the tripod’s legs. Where you’ll really see the advantage of auto-leveling is when moving from one location to another. Instead of having to manually adjust everything again, just hit the button on Theta and the tripod will level itself based on the new terrain.

Of course, what’s also critical to capturing a straight shot is getting the camera level on the ball head. Another nice thing about Theta is that it allows you to continually keep the camera level while adjusting the ball head for composition.

Theta’s ball head is designed with a handy locking system that allows the ball head to be aligned with the tripod at all times. To do this, simply switch the ball head from free mode to roll lock mode. In roll lock position, when the tripod is level with the ground, so is the camera.

Photo of a tripod

Speedy Set-Up

The Theta has other features that help you quickly set it up so you can start shooting right away. Deploying a traditional tripod requires you to open either the flip or twist locks on the joints of each of the legs, pull out the legs, and then lock them all again. This can be a time-consuming process.

To deploy the Theta just unlock the foot locks on all the sections and pull out the legs. Then simply twist the foot lock back to lock the legs. The result is it only takes seconds to set up the Theta, which helps ensure you never miss a shot.

To speed up camera mounting, Benro has designed the ball head with a Quick Lock mechanism that requires just one easy step to attach your camera. With the quick release plate attached the base of your camera, just press your camera into the ball head and it will lock automatically with a satisfying click. To remove the camera, twist the ring and lift it off the ball head.

Other timesaving features we like include Theta’s anti-slip leg locking mechanism, with redundancy to avoid leg slippage. This will not only help the tripod stand up to conditions such as sand, water, and wind so you don’t need to readjust your shot, it will help protect your camera from falling over and potentially being damaged.

Photo of a person holding a tripod

Portable But Tough Design

With all this innovative technology packed into the Theta, you might think this tripod would have to be big and clunky. That’s not the case at all and, in fact, Benro’s done a great job making Theta travel-friendly.

To make it easier to pack up, Theta has a trigonous center column rather than a round column. So, when folded, Theta’s center column and legs merge together snuggly, eliminating the wasted dead space you find in tripods with circular center columns. This makes Theta much easier to carry and to pack in a bag.

Even though Theta is more compact than competing tripods, it’s sturdier. The trigonous center shaft allows the tripod to maintain a supportive round tube design while thickening Theta’s upper leg diameter to 29mm. On average, most competing tripods have thinner leg diameters but with a larger packed size.

And, of course, Theta is made of premium carbon fiber, offering a weight capacity of 44.1 pounds (20 kg) to easily support full-frame cameras with lenses even in open windy locations. At the same time, it weighs only 2.78 pounds (1.25 kg) and has a folded size of just 17.3 inches (44 cm) proving that good things come in small packages.

Photo of a tripod in a bag

More Info

This is just a small tase of what the Benro Theta tripod offers. To learn more visit Theta’s Kickstarter page. Outdoor Photographer readers can enjoy the highest discount on Theta on Kickstarter and extend their warranty 3 years more, for a total of 6 years warranty.

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Congratulations to David Connel for winning the recent Shooting A Concept Assignment with the image, “Peeking Through The Keyhole.”

View the winning image and a selection of submissions below. And be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

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Photo of Fujifilm X-H2S

The Fujifilm X-H2S—which since its introduction has been joined by the higher-resolution X-H2—is a fascinating successor to 2018’s X-H1. At that time, the Fujifilm X-H1 was an outlier in the Fujifilm X Series lineup. The camera was larger, featured a bigger grip and sported a large information display on top. It looked like a hybrid between the GFX series and the X Series.

“Hybrid” is a fitting word since the X-H1 was also Fujifilm’s most “hybrid” camera yet. The new flagship camera was the first X Series camera to include in-body image stabilization and the first to record DCI 4K video with internal log (F-log) recording.

Enter the Fujifilm X-H2S ($2499), Fujifilm’s highest-performance X Series camera ever. Speed is the name of the game with the X-H2S. Inside its SLR-style body is a brand-new 26.1-megapixel stacked X-Trans CMOS 5 HS image sensor, super-fast X-Processor 5, AI-powered autofocus and much more. If the new X-H2 is all about resolution, the X-H2S is all about agility. This camera shoots at up to 40 frames per second at full resolution with full AF/AE. It’s fast.

There’s no doubt that on paper, the Fuji X-H2S is an absolute beast of a camera. It lives up to every bit of its flagship billing. But is it worth its $2,500 price point, which puts it well into full-frame camera territory? Let’s take a closer look in this hands-on review.

Photo of Fujifilm X-H2S and 150-600mm lens

Design & Handling

There’s a lot to like about the Fujifilm X-H2S. Some aspects of the camera are universally praised. However, concerning the camera’s design, this is where the X-H2S and subsequent X-H2 are a bit polarizing. A big part of the X Series’ appeal has been camera design and handling, and cameras with dedicated dials for shutter speed, ISO and exposure compensation have been the norm.

The X-H2S takes a departure from this. You’ll find a typical dial to control shooting mode and buttons you use alongside the command dials to control ISO and exposure compensation. Is something of value lost with this approach? I think so. However, is it a bad tradeoff? Absolutely not. What good is a camera that shoots at 40 fps if you’re wasting valuable time fiddling with dials?

If you’ve never shot with the X-H1, the X-H2S may initially strike you as slightly large for a Fujifilm X Series camera. The height and width aren’t so different from other X Series models, but the X-H2S’s depth is quite a bit larger. This is almost entirely because of the X-H2S’s prominent front grip. The beefy grip makes the camera a bit more voluminous, but it’s worth it because it’s an excellent grip. I was especially grateful for the large front grip when shooting with the new, reasonably large XF 150-600mm telephoto zoom lens.

Alongside a great front grip, the X-H2S also includes a large e-ink information panel. I’m used to a display like this from my time using Fujifilm GFX series cameras, but it’s something absent from the X-T4. Instead of a top display, that camera includes ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation dials. Tradeoffs. I prefer the X-H2S’s overall control approach, but I understand why some photographers prefer physical dials.

There are a couple more important displays to discuss. The X-H2S’s rear panel is 3 inches and has 1.62M dots. It’s sharp and bright. It’s also a vari-angle display, which works very well for stills and video. The display can be flipped entirely around to use as a self-facing display or to protect the screen when the camera is packed away, which is a nice touch.

The camera’s electronic viewfinder is also excellent. It’s an all-new EVF with 5.76M dots (up from 3.69M on the original X-H1). The X-H2S’s EVF has 0.8x magnification, which is an improvement over 0.75x. In use, the EVF is excellent. The camera also does a good job in most situations of automatically switching between the EVF and rear display, something Fujifilm says it’s improved with the X-H2S. The EVF can refresh at 120 fps when using the camera in its “Boost” performance mode, which is super smooth. It’s a very nice EVF, and I think it’s Fujifilm’s best yet in the X Series.

Overall, the X-H2S is a well-designed camera. Its controls are intelligently placed and easy to use. Controlling the camera is swift, which is especially important given that it’s a flagship, pro-level camera.

Photo of a pond

Fujifilm X-H2S, Fujifilm XF16-80mm F4 R OIS WR at 18mm (27mm equivalent). Exposure: 1/45 sec., Æ’/4, ISO 160.

Image Quality

At the heart of the X-H2S is a new image sensor. While it may not represent a megapixel improvement over the X-T4’s sensor, the new sensor is significantly different thanks to its stacked design. The X-Trans CMOS 5 HS is Fujifilm’s first stacked image sensor, and the impressive architecture unlocks serious performance. We’ll discuss performance further a bit later.

As for image quality, it’s excellent. The camera’s native ISO range of 160-51,200 delivers impressive image quality across much of its range. Considering low ISO performance, RAW and JPEG images are sharp and detailed, with impressive dynamic range and great color. There’s a lot to gain by shooting in RAW. At low ISO settings, the files offer a lot of latitude for making extensive adjustments to shadows and highlights. As you increase shadow detail, you do introduce a bit of visible noise, but it’s generally fine-grained and not distracting.

As you increase ISO, image quality remains quite nice. Considering JPEG images straight from the camera, the X-H2S applies reasonably good noise reduction in the camera. You lose a bit more detail than if you processed raw files yourself, but the results look good and aren’t overly “digital” or muddy looking.

When working with RAW image files, you can process high-ISO shots to have an impressive amount of detail without accepting a lot of noise. I prefer more detail, even if it comes at the cost of additional visible noise. The extra noise isn’t distracting most of the time, especially when viewing images online or when making prints.

Importantly, even though noise levels increase alongside the ISO speed, color rendition and dynamic range remain quite impressive, as expected. You lose some dynamic range as you increase ISO, as is always true, but image quality remains very usable up through ISO 12,800. If you need to push the ISO further, you can, although it comes with a rather high cost.

Overall, the X-H2S delivers great all-around image quality. In-camera JPEG images look excellent and are highly tunable to your preferences, thanks to Fujifilm’s industry-leading Film Simulations. RAW images are similarly impressive, offering good dynamic range, significant flexibility during post-processing and great tonality. It will be very interesting to see how the X-H2’s 40MP sensor compares to the X-H2S’s 26MP stacked sensor, but if you’re worried about 26MP coming up short concerning sharpness or detail, it’s a misplaced worry.

Photo of a hawk

Fujifilm X-H2S, Fujifilm XF150-600mm F5.6-8 R LM OIS WR lens at 600mm (900mm equivalent). Exposure: 1/2000 sec., Æ’/8, ISO 4000.

Autofocus

With the X-H2S, Fujifilm has joined its competitors in the AI arms race. The X-H2S utilizes “deep learning technology” to recognize different subjects, including humans, animals, automobiles, motorcycles, bicycles, airplanes and trains. You can cycle through different subjects in the camera’s quick menu—the X-H2S won’t automatically detect the subject otherwise.

However, it’s worth noting that there’s an additional setting for face/eye detection for human subjects, as there have been for prior X Series cameras. The AI AF will also detect the face/eye of animals, and there are two categories for animal AF: mammal and bird. Interestingly, the bird AF worked for me when photographing insects and amphibians, and I’ve heard that it works for reptiles, too, which is a nice bonus.

The overall autofocus system isn’t much different from the one featured in the X-T4, although the improved sensor readout speed and more powerful processor result in significantly faster AF performance. However, the introduction of AI subject detection is critical. It’s a highlight feature of the X-H2S. So how well does it work?

Considering it’s the first iteration, I think it works well. When using it for wildlife, the camera accurately identified the subject most of the time, even in low-light situations. However, performance dipped a bit when a bird or mammal wasn’t facing the camera.

There were also occasional situations where a subject was obvious to me in the frame, but the camera didn’t pick it up quickly. It’s not the best AI AF I’ve seen in a camera, but it’s still very good. In most situations, it works better and quicker than I could if I manually moved the point around, especially when photographing moving subjects.

The AI system works with existing AF settings, so you can combine spot AF for manual precision and AI for subject detection if you want. For example, if using spot AF with AI subject detection enabled, the camera will still focus on a detected subject, even if it’s outside the selected autofocus area.

Overall, the autofocus performance is excellent. The X-H2S features Fujifilm’s best AF technology to date, and it’s a noticeable improvement in speed and accuracy compared to Fujifilm’s previous high-end cameras, which were no slouches.

Photo of a whirlpool

Fujifilm X-H2S, Fujifilm XF16-80mm F4 R OIS WR lens at 17mm (26mm equivalent). Exposure: 20 secs., Æ’/11, ISO 160.

Performance

The stacked sensor affects autofocus and also plays a major role in the X-H2S’s overall performance. The X-H2S can shoot full-resolution RAW images at up to 40 frames per second with full AF/AE. Yes, 40 fps. That’s fast.

There are a couple of caveats. The X-H2S’s autofocus system doesn’t always keep pace with the camera’s shooting speed, depending on the situation and the lens you use. And you must use the electronic shutter to achieve these speeds.

Neither of these realities is surprising. The camera’s electronic shutter is quite good. The sensor’s fast readout speed allows for reduced rolling shutter, and I didn’t have any noticeable issues with rolling shutter artifacts during my time with the camera.

If you don’t want to use the electronic shutter for whatever reason, you can use the camera’s mechanical shutter. Using the mechanical shutter, the X-H2S still shoots at up to 15 frames per second, which is plenty fast for many situations. When using the mechanical shutter at 15 fps, you also benefit from increased buffer depth, so that’s an interesting tradeoff.

That said, buffer depths are impressive, especially when using a CFexpress Type B card like I did. With a fast card, you can capture around 200 RAW images before the camera slows down at 40 fps. As for JPEG images, you can capture slightly more, although the bigger advantage here is that the buffer clears in just a few seconds versus about 10 seconds for RAW+JPEG.

If you slow the camera down to 30 fps, which is still very fast, the buffer depth increases by around 50 percent for RAW images, and the JPEG buffer is practically endless (greater than 1,000 shots). At 15 fps, the RAW buffer is more than 400, by the way. The buffer depth performance is really impressive.

Conclusion

Overall, the Fujifilm X-H2S’s performance is stellar. The electronic shutter is well-implemented, and the performance it allows is excellent. I wish the AF could keep up with the camera’s top shooting speed more reliably, but 40 fps is a very tall order.

The Fujifilm X-H2S is the best choice in the Fujifilm X Series for wildlife and action photographers. If you need high-res shooting, the new X-H2 might be more up your alley. However, if you want speed, the X-H2S is for you. Buy it here for $2499.

Jeremy Gray is the reviews editor of our sibling website, Imaging Resource. Read an extended version of this review and check out additional sample images at imaging-resource.com.

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Wednesday, April 19, 2023

Photo By Bill Sisson

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Ricketts Glen” by Bill Sisson. Location: Ricketts Glen State Park, Pennsylvania.

“Ricketts Glen State Park in Pennsylvania features more than 20 waterfalls scattered along hiking trails,” says Sisson. “To capture this image, I had to place my camera about 18 inches above the water. The low camera placement is essential to hiding a footbridge that’s just behind the top of the waterfall. The low angle also helps emphasize the white water in the foreground. In shooting waterfalls in Pennsylvania, I often try to have an eye-catching foreground with lines leading to the waterfall in the mid-ground and trees in the background. This is a two-exposure blend. I took a 30-second exposure for the falls and white water to draw out the lines in the white water. I used a 5-second exposure for the trees to deal with a slight breeze ruffling the leaves.”

Pentax K-1, f/20, ISO 100.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photo By Bob Faucher

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Moonrise, Valley of Dreams” by Bob Faucher. Location: northwestern New Mexico badlands.

“In the remote area of New Mexico known as the Valley of Dreams Badlands is a geological oddity,” explains Faucher. “The entire area is a maze of toadstools, eroded formations, little windows, petrified wood and more. On this evening, a full moon rose, partially framed by a few of the many hoodoo formations.”

EF 28-70mm @ 50mm; f/8 @ 1/20 sec, -1 EV, ISO 400.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Monday, April 17, 2023

Today’s Photo of the Day is “Death Valley Rains” by Harry Lichtman. Location: Death Valley National Park, California.

Rains are pretty rare in Death Valley, occurring about 20 days per year,” explains Lichtman. “I was fortunate to be among the swirling sands during one of these events. Dry and wet sand created different colors, and I use the classic curve of this dune to bring the viewer through the image to the rain beyond.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photo of adjustable tripod

Tripods are one of the most dependable pieces of gear an outdoor photographer can own. They provide steady, stabilizing support for your camera set-up to help you capture sharp shots no matter the lighting or wind conditions. In some ways, an adjustable tripod is like a trusted friend you can lean on for your most important landscape shoots.

But not all tripods are created equal. Yes, you certainly might be able to save a few dollars by buying a less expensive tripod, but how long is it going to last, and will it be able to provide reliable stability? For outdoor photographers, durability and dependability are essential for our gear. This is why we highly recommend buying a high-quality, adjustable tripod that will let you capture gorgeous images from a variety of angles and locations. Read our guide with five things to look for when shopping for a first-rate tripod.

1. Look For A Compact But Sturdy Tripod

Did you buy an adjustable tripod that’s so big and heavy you often just leave it at home because you don’t want to carry it? That’s no help. Or maybe you purchased a lightweight tripod only to realize later that its flimsy plastic or aluminum build isn’t holding up during heavy usage? Instead, you should consider buying a tough carbon fiber tripod like the K&F CONCEPT X284C2, which won the 2023 Red Dot Award for Product Design. K&F CONCEPT has a total of 4 products that have been honored with this accolade in 2023, including a camera backpack, two tripods, and a switch cleaning pen.

The K&F CONCEPT X284C2 tripod, which you can try for yourself here, is made of high-quality carbon fiber for compact but strong support. It features a durable 10-layer construction that is weather/corrosion/scratch-resistant. Weighing just four pounds with its included ball-head, the X284C2 is relatively lightweight and folds up snugly to reduce its size for carrying. The adjustable tripod even comes with a rip-resistant, padded carrying case to ensure you never leave it at home.

Photo of adjustable tripod

 

2. Find A Tripod That Offers Strong Support

Buying a less expensive or inferior quality tripod means it won’t be able to support much weight. For wildlife photographers who use long telephotos or landscape shooters with heavy, high-resolution cameras and wide-angle lenses, that can be a major problem. Who wants their tripod to move or, even worse, topple over during a once-in-a-lifetime shot? No one. The X284C2 pairs a panoramic ball head and a solid, 28mm-diameter tube leg to provide substantial load capacity of up to 55 pounds. Meanwhile, the specially designed 40mm ball-head rotates 360 degrees to help you get your shot from whatever angle you desire. The versatile ball-head will also help you capture amazing panoramas.

Photo of a ball head

 

3. Versatility Is Key In A Tripod

Let’s face it: most traditional tripods offer you a limited number of ways to set up your shot. Adjust the tripod to eye-level. Aim your camera. Capture the image. That’s fine if you want mainly “traditional” landscape photos. However, if you’re looking for more variety in your images, you’ll need an adjustable tripod like the versatile X284C2. The X284C2’s center column can be detached and removed in 3-6 seconds using K&F CONCEPT’s patented locking system. Without the center column, you can then easily lower the tripod to ground level to help you capture sharp macro photos of flora and fauna or intimate close-ups of insects and other tiny critters. This flexibility will give you a range of safely stabilized photo options during your next outdoor shoot.

Photo of adjustable tripod lying flat

 

4. You Want A Tripod That’s Fast To Set Up

Getting your adjustable tripod set up quickly and securely can make or break a photo. We don’t know how many times we’ve fumbled with the locking legs of a tripod while in a rush only to realize the support is not straight or stable. With the X284C2 you won’t need to worry about that. The tripod is equipped with an easy quarter-turn twist locking system that enables fast leg adjustments with just one hand. So, if you want to capture a gorgeous sunset or fast-moving wildlife, you’ll have the X284C2 tripod set up in no time, so you won’t miss your shot! See how versatile this tripod really is by getting one yourself here

Photo of adjustable tripod leg

 

5. More Connections On A Tripod Give You More Options

Tripods are just for cameras, right? Wrong! Along with the included ball-head on top, the X284C2 is equipped with two additional 3/8-inch interfaces on the sides to connect to more external devices, offering you convenient connections to diversify your shoot. For instance, you can add a clamp to attach a smartphone if you want to, for instance, record behind the scenes video for YouTube. Or mount an external hard drive to the adjustable tripod to provide additional backup for storage. Expand your options with this expandable tripod. Get connected today with X284C2 tripod here.

For more information, check out our story on how to choose a great carbon fiber tripod.

Photo of tripod connections

LEARN MORE ABOUT K&F CONCEPT’S INNOVATIONS

With over 150 patents, K&F CONCEPT creates a range of innovative photographic accessories, including filters, tripods, backpacks and lens adapters—with more to come—and has been recognized with international design awards including iF Design Award 2021 and RedDot Product Design 2021. With K&F CONCEPT, See the Unseen. For more information on K&F CONCEPT products and the X284C2 carbon fiber tripod, visit kfconcept.com.

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Over 70 percent of the Earth’s surface is covered with water. So why don’t more water photos exist compared to the magnitude of “topographic” pics of mountains, hills, plains, valleys, craters, canyons and caves? Some reasons are obvious and I know my question is rhetorical. But given water’s abundance, allow this week’s tip to motivate you to focus on the wet side and flood memory cards with a monsoon of pixels. The fact that water is found in a myriad of forms helps precipitate options. It allows you to dip into a reservoir of research and form avalanches of new ideas to become a liquid part of your repertoire. Follow me down or upstream while I meander through a number of techniques to moisten your thoughts, and use these ideas to take your water photography to new depths.

I start this week’s ideas by pointing out numerous options and variables that connect to water. Each offers a plethora of photographic potential. That potential can be raised to a whole new level when you add in factors such as seasons of the year, evaporation and/or flooding, still water, rapids, etc. Toss in concepts such as reflections, strength, power and calm and it becomes obvious that water photography will never dry up.

Water can possess many moods. Water can reflect emotions when you sit by a gentle stream and contemplate life. Taken literally, it can also reveal beauty when a still puddle reflects a primary subject at sunrise or sunset. Torrents of water can cause extreme stress and destruction as homes are threatened and washed away in floods but can also have people gaze in wonder as torrents of water wash over Niagara Falls.

The Shutter Is Key

Use your camera’s technology to create and evoke an effect and/or emotion. The easiest way to impart this is to take control of the shutter speed when the image is made. Slower speeds create the “cotton candy” effect. When speeds of 1 second or longer are used, water takes on more of a milky/silky look. Experiment using everything from 1 second to 30 seconds and longer. Each will reveal variations in characteristics. Conversely, use speeds of 2,000th or faster to freeze single drops. Again, experiment with different speeds doubling or halving the number with each new capture. Images using fast shutter speeds are synonymous with power and fortitude, while those taken with slow ones depict calm, tranquility and peacefulness. With fast speeds, lay on the motor drive to capture given drops in various locations of the composition.

Abstract Winter

Don’t overlook the abstract when water turns to ice. Walk the banks of shallow lakes, ponds and other still bodies where ice may form. It often freezes with swirls, areas of different milky densities, abstract lines and more. Break out the macro lens and get in close. Look for sections of interest as you zoom in or out. The difference between an inch or two can often make or break a macro composition.

 

Gaseous Greatness

One of my favorite ways to depict a state of water occurs on chilly fall and winter days at sunrise. Backlit water in its gaseous state, as it evaporates off a meandering river, lake or other small body at sunrise, ranks in my top three conditions in which I love to make bucolic images. Ground fog provides the same ideal conditions. The proper temperature, humidity level and a clear eastern horizon all must align for it to occur. It also happens in the spring after a few days of warmth and a chill returns overnight.

Get Reflective

The morning after a good rainfall when the air is crisp and clear is a great time to head into the field. Any pothole, dip in the earth or depression that holds gathering water can be used as a reflective surface if the air is still. Look for landforms, animals, vegetation and more to use as a subject. Photograph the scene with the reflection, photograph the scene without the reflection and photograph just the reflection. Try verticals and horizontals to “Exhaust All Possibilities,” one of my top-five favorite sayings.

A Night On The Town

City lights add intrigue to reflected colors in puddles and on pavement after a good rain. Utilize the reflective characteristics of full puddles, potholes, shiny pavement, sidewalks and more. The shine on roads can create mirror images or “jiggly” abstracts. Incorporate car taillights or headlights into the composition.

Combine any number of the above techniques and the number of potential images grows exponentially. One more thought for the weary: Even on a dreary day when it’s cold and you just don’t feel like bundling up, break out a clear baking pan, fill it with water, drop in some food coloring and give the water a gentle swirl—more subjects, more photos, more ideas!

So head into the field and use all the above as your divining rod to stimulate your individuality. Jot down any new thoughts before they evaporate. Grab all your gear and meander into the field to bring home an ocean of new and amazing creations. Did I whet your appetite yet?

Feel free to explore more of my photography at my website: www.russburdenphotography.com or visit my SmugMug page: russburden.smugmug.com.

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