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Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Located in South Carolina, just a half-hour’s drive from the capital city of Columbia, Congaree National Park preserves the largest remaining old-growth bottomland forest in North America. Congaree isn’t exactly a swamp, because most of the time no standing water covers the floor, but the Congaree River floods the area about 10 times per year. This lesser-known and uncrowded park combines the watery environment of the Everglades with the towering old-growth forests of the West. It’s a small 41 square miles, but you can’t explore it by driving. Hiking and canoeing are the only ways to immerse yourself in the primeval forest.

photo taken at Congaree National Park

Starting from the visitor center, the flat, easy 2.4-mile Boardwalk Loop Trail is the obvious introduction to the park. The first section is elevated as much as 6 feet, while the second section rests directly on the forest floor, offering a close view of mysterious cypress knees. Along the Bluff Trail (1.7 miles), you’ll discover a forest of pines made distinct from the bottomland forest by just a tiny elevation difference. In late May, you can observe synchronous fireflies there within a more relaxed environment than at Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Paddling on Cedar Creek provides you with a unique perspective and a memorable experience. The park offers free guided canoe tours, or you can rent from outfitters in Columbia.

Weather At Congaree National Park

Congaree has a humid subtropical climate. In the spring and fall, temperatures (in the 70s) and humidity (3 inches of monthly precipitation) are moderate. Summer is hot (in the 90s) and humid, with frequent thunderstorms (4.5 inches of monthly precipitation), and brings lots of mosquitoes. Winters are mild (daytime 50s, snow and freezing night temperatures possible). At that time, flooding, favorable for photography, is the most likely to occur, but the trees are bare.

Photo Experience

In Congaree, open views are relatively rare, so most of the time you’ll be photographing deciduous forest scenes with the additional creative possibilities offered by water. Moderate wide-angle to telephoto lenses are enough. Even if you come when the forest isn’t flooded, you can still find water in creeks and lakes. In dry conditions, my favorite spot is Weston Lake, an abandoned channel of the Congaree River where I photographed trees growing out of the water, emblematic of the South. The Boardwalk Trail ends there, but to find more viewpoints, I continued along the shores of Weston Lake on the 2-mile Weston Lake Loop Trail. On that day, with variable weather, I waited for a cloud to obscure the sun and lower the contrast so that the trees back in the forest would be visible, adding a bit of depth to the photograph. OP

Best Times To Visit

Spring and autumn have pleasant weather. In the early spring, you’re more likely to find the forest flooded while fresh leaves begin. The most beautiful time is in late autumn, with fall colors peaking from late October to early November. The forest is most easily photographed on cloudy days. On a clear day, you may want to photograph early in the morning or late in the day when the contrast is reduced.

Contact: National Park Service, nps.gov/cong/index.htm.


See more of QT Luong’s work at terragalleria.com.

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Photo By stclair macaulay

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Bigger Mouth” by stclair macaulay. Location: Prince Edward Island.

Canon EOS-1D X. Exposure: 1/5000 sec., f/2.8, ISO 200.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Monday, June 29, 2020

Photo By Douglas Croft

Photo By Douglas Croft

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Lilac-Breasted Roller” by Douglas Croft. Location: Kruger National Park, South Africa.

Nikon D7000. Exposure: 1/2000 sec., f/8, ISO 400.

“I didn’t go to South Africa to photograph birds, but then I saw a lilac-breasted roller and I was hooked,” recalls Croft.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Freaky Photo Fallacies

For this Photo Tip of the Week, I want to lighten things up a bit yet still provide information that can up your photo game. The idea came to mind when I heard someone mention a tried but true, often used statement: There are two sides to every story. This got me thinking. Each of you who are reading this is a hard-working photographer and you care about the craft. But what about non-photographers? I provide for you a look at what we do from their perspective in regard to how hard we work, how difficult it is to bag a great image and other aspects. Enjoy the read.

The Wildlife Photographer: I finally got THE SHOT I wanted after driving the same road for days, getting out of bed at 4:30 a.m. to arrive at my destination by sunrise, hoping the subject will be close to the road, hoping its head angle goes hand in hand with the angle of the early-morning sun and appears in an environment where the background is clean with no distractions. To have all these factors fall into place takes dedication, effort, energy, out-of-pocket expenses, sleep deprivation and, most of all, an investment in time spent with the animal.

The Outsider: I really like your photo of the ______. It must be nice to simply take your camera with you on a trip, point it at a subject and come back with a great image—you guys really have it easy and you get paid to do it. What a cushy life!

Freaky Photo Fallacies

Reality: As a wildlife photographer, you know the hard work it takes to get “the shot.” The light has to be right, which translates to the hour after sunrise or the hour before sunset. Use these times to make your best images. Be persistent. Great behavior isn’t captured every minute of every day.

The Wildlife Photographer: I want to capture peak action of a predator/prey hunt in the Serengeti. I’ve followed the same group of animals for days with no luck. I drove the park a myriad of times with no luck. I looked out the window and saw thick, low-level clouds but went out anyhow hoping for an opening. I secured all the necessary permits so I could drive where I want. On the sixth day, I got an image that was close, but another animal walked into the shot at the peak moment and photobombed the event. I won’t give up.

The Outsider: Cool man—did you use your iPhone to get that shot? I carry mine with me all the time and I’m always in the right place at the right time. How cool it must be to make photos like that every second of every day. Don’t you get tired of capturing great photos like that all the time?

Freaky Photo Fallacies

Reality: As with many jobs, an outsider’s perspective of what needs to be done in any job is skewed, but for some reason, it’s emphasized in what we do. People don’t realize everything needs to fall into place to make the perfect capture. Don’t let this fact impede you. Be persistent. Go out even if it’s cloudy. If you don’t go into the field, you’re guaranteed to not get the shot.

The Wildlife Photographer: I cashed out my retirement fund a bit early, but paying the penalty so I can finally purchase that 600mm lens is so worth it. I’ve longed for it for years and I can’t wait to bring it into the field. It’s heavy, big and unwieldy, but for what it does, I’m fully “IN.” After seeing the results, it was worth every penny of the $12,000 it cost.

The Outsider: Dude—you must have great equipment to get a photo that good. I bet you spent at least a couple hundred dollars on that monster lens. You have to carry that around? Sweet—it saves you time in the gym. I wish my job was as easy as yours.

Reality: The speed and wide aperture of a long prime lens provide a certain “look” to an image with regards to the bokeh. The ƒ/4 aperture allows you to shoot in lower light or use a faster shutter speed to freeze action. The tradeoff is the cost and need to carry it, but both are worth it. An expensive word processing program doesn’t make a novelist a better writer nor does great equipment make a photographer better. Learn to use what you own to the fullest extent to make the best possible images you can. 

Freaky Photo Fallacies

The Wildlife Photographer: I’ve been to the same location numerous times but never had the light, clouds or drama at sunrise or sunset the way I envision the end result. I continue to return in that I want that perfect RAW file. I will get it someday. After numerous attempts, that day has come and I got the capture for which I’ve longed.

The Outsider: Yo—I really dig using Photoshop. Have a look at my iPhone of this photo. I took it like a year ago and I’ve gotten better using Photoshop since. I’m rocking it now. I took the sky from this photo and combined it with this scene. It’s easy—you guys must do it all the time. If you’re interested, pay me like $100 I can show you how to do it.

Reality: Photoshop doesn’t turn a bad RAW file into a prize-winning shot. Granted, areas can be cloned and skies can be swapped, but for those who rely on getting it right in camera, stay true to your ethic. Software keeps getting more powerful and more intuitive, which is great. Use it to your advantage, but if you do move, swap or combine images, come clean about them.

Visit www.russburdenphotography.com for information about his nature photography safaris to Tanzania.

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Sunday, June 28, 2020

Photo By Tom Elenbaas

Photo By Tom Elenbaas

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Rhododendrons and Redwoods” by Tom Elenbaas. Location: Del Norte Coast Redwoods National Park, California.

“This image was captured along the Damnation Creek Trail in Northern California’s Del Norte Redwoods this past May [2019] when the Rhododendrons were in full bloom,” explains Elenbaas. “I was particularly struck by the single bloom nesting in the center of the image framed by the ‘V’ in the branch of the Rhododendron. The light fog in the background adds just a touch of mystique to the image.”

See more of Tom Elenbaas’ photography at www.tomelenbaas.com.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Saturday, June 27, 2020

Photo By Heather Nicole

Photo By Heather Nicole

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Zen” by Heather Nicole. Location: Alaska.

“A young coastal brown bear cub enjoys a quiet moment of Zen in a peaceful meadow,” says Nicole.

Canon EOS 70D, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011. Exposure: 1/800 sec., f/5.6, ISO 800.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Friday, June 26, 2020

Photo By A. Bender

Photo By A. Bender

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Huddled” by A. Bender. Location: Nagano, Japan.

“An older female Japanese macaque, outcast from her troop for unknown reasons, huddles by herself against the freezing temperatures and falling snow.”

Nikon D500, Tamron 100-400mm lens. Exposure: 1/640 sec., f/6.3, ISO 2500.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Thursday, June 25, 2020

Photo By Gary Sherman

Photo By Gary Sherman

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Einn Hestur” by Gary Sherman. Location: Hofn, Iceland.

“A lone Icelandic horse grazes at low tide at the base of Vestrahorn Mountain in Hofn, Iceland,” describes Sherman.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III. Exposure: 1/50 sec., f/10, ISO 100.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Wednesday, June 24, 2020

Olympus Corporation announced that it has signed a “memorandum of understanding” to separate its Olympus Imaging Business Unit into a new company—referred to in the press release as simply “NewCo” for the present time—which will be sold to Japan Industrial Partners. The companies expect to have a formal agreement in place by September 30, and to finalize the transaction by the end of this year.

What this means exactly for Olympus shooters is not clear, though the press release states that NewCo will be the “successor of reputable brands such as ‘OM-D’ and ‘ZUIKO,’” with the implication that NewCo will continue to develop and support new products in those lines.

Olympus cites the contraction of the digital camera market and three consecutive years of operating losses as the reasons motivating this decision. The intent is that the new company will be able to streamline its operations to reduce costs. “Olympus considers that, by carving-out the Imaging business and by operating the business with JIP, the Imaging business’s corporate structure may become more compact, efficient and agile.”

During the process, Olympus’s imaging division will continue to operate as usual and intends to launch new products already planned.

For more information, see the “Signing of Memorandum of Understanding for Divesture of Imaging Solutions Business” at the global Olympus website: https://www.olympus-global.com/ir/data/announcement/2020/contents/ir00013.pdf

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Congratulations to Beth Baker for winning the recent Pick A Color Assignment with the image, “Oregon Rainforest.” See more of Baker’s photography at www.bethbakerphotos.com

View the winning image and a selection of submissions in the gallery below. And be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

[See image gallery at www.outdoorphotographer.com]

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Photo By Jody Partin

Photo By Jody Partin

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Summer Garden” by Jody Partin. Location: Wisconsin.

Nikon D810. Exposure: 1/640 sec., f/6.3, ISO 400.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Jody Partin appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Photographers have always struggled with photographing high-contrast scenes often found at sunrise or sunset. High dynamic range, or HDR techniques can help you capture those scenes with greater detail and a “natural” look, if you use the technique properly.

This image from Glacier National Park was shot with a Singh-Ray GND filter way before HDR came of age. While the GND filter worked well for the composition, I wish I had predicted the future and also bracketed frames for future use when HDR became easer.

Back in the film days, photographers like Galen Rowell helped to pioneer the use of rectangular graduated neutral density filters (GND filters) that were clear on one end and dark on the other. These filters were primarily applied by landscape photographers to darken skies or mountains in order to balance with foreground exposures more closely. Use of these filters made it possible to photograph high-contrast scenes that were previously impossible to properly expose in a single frame.

This image illustrates how a graduated neutral density filter can be used to darken the sky to match the foreground.

While technically possible with film, the advent of digital photography brought with it the new technique of blending multiple exposures of the same scene to create a single HDR image. This new technique quickly caught on and became wildly popular, so much so that it created an entirely new style of images showing more detail in the shadows and highlights than the human eye could see in real life. While this trend became popular, it also created a bit of a backlash among more traditionally minded photographers as well as photo editors. We would hear things like, “that image doesn’t look real” or “that photo looks Photoshopped.” I would argue that it also helped erode the general public’s appreciation of a truly well-crafted, properly exposed—and natural-looking—landscape image.

As someone who often works with photo editors, I noticed that some outright banned the submission of HDR images of any kind. At the time, I was a big user of graduated neutral density filters, with my goal being to make scenes look as natural as possible, but I discovered that in many situations, by carefully and tastefully merging multiple images into HDR files, I could actually create images that looked more realistic than if I had I used my trusty GND filters. So realistic, in fact, that I (and many other photographers) was guilty of quietly sending natural-looking HDR images to big-name publishers with no HDR policies and regularly having them chosen and published. At the time, I was mainly using GND filters, but it was clear that the future was going to be with HDR once the process became easier.

HDR technique used on a scene near Lake Tahoe

This photograph from Carson Pass near Lake Tahoe is one of my first successful HDR images. While I also shot the scene using a GND filter, I ended up being able to create a more natural-looking image by blending the bracketed files in Lightroom versus the harsher GND-filtered image.

HDR Photography Today

Those first few years of HDR were a bit of the wild west as people discovered what was possible, and some way-over-the-top material gave HDR images a bad name. But fast forward to 2020, and now HDR images are the norm rather than the exception. Software that was once overly complex and often created garish images just a few years ago is now so easy to use, making it possible to shoot high-contrast scenes that photographers just a decade ago wouldn’t even have bothered shooting.

A scene that benefits from the advantages of HDR

This shot from Joshua Tree National Park is a prime example of a scene where HDR works better than a GND filter. Bracketing for HDR allowed me to hold the sky exposure and also open up the shadows of the rocks. While a GND filter would have worked to darken the sky, I wouldn’t have been able to open up the shadowed rocks nearly as much.

With Adobe Lightroom, we have the ability to create a single blended image from multiple exposures with a click of a button. The composite image can then be further adjusted with all of Lightroom’s tools, but now with much more dynamic range than a single exposure would have—I can open shadows or save highlights many stops beyond what a single RAW file from even the best cameras available can produce. And I’m able to make these adjustments locally as needed, rather than only being able to adjust exposure globally as with GND filters. There are more complicated, specialized HDR programs that might give you a slight edge over the Lightroom method, but Lightroom is so quick and so user friendly that I don’t even bother using those programs anymore.

How To Use HDR

Because of the ease of HDR, one common mistake I see now when working with my workshop students is that they bracket nearly every single composition, even when their camera sensor can easily handle the contrast range of the scene. There are times when HDR is useful to gain information in the highlights and shadows, but there are also times when you are just wasting card space—and, more importantly, your time when editing. When you bracket exposures of every scene, you have that many more frames to wade through when selecting your best images.

In this photo from Glacier National Park, bracketing for HDR allowed me to control the exposure more naturally in select areas of the image far better than if I had used a GND filter.

The easiest way to see if you need to start bracketing for HDR is to frequently check your histogram to make sure you are properly exposing your scene, and also if you are losing information on one or both ends of the tonal range. Once you begin exceeding the range of the histogram, that is when you start bracketing for an HDR image.

When bracketing, I typically shoot groups of three images (not five), with one shot underexposed, one properly exposed and one overexposed. My exposure adjustment between frames is slightly scene dependent, but typically I bracket in two- or possibly three-stop increments.

Also, remember that what your meter says is properly exposed isn’t always the case. Check that histogram, especially in complicated lighting situations.

Traditional Filters Are Still Useful

You might think the days of carrying graduated neutral density filters are over, but the reality is that no matter how good the abilities of HDR have become, situations do still arise when a GND filter is better.

For most static, tripod-based shooting of landscapes, HDR is usually the best option, but remember you have to bracket multiple frames for blending later. What if you are shooting hand-held or shooting a fast-moving subject? Some or all of your bracketed frames won’t line up correctly anymore. There is some great software magic that deals with “ghosting” or helps line up images, but any time movement is involved, using a GND filter to bring the scene’s contrast back into the range of the sensor is still the way to go.

this image does not use HDR, but a graduated filter instead

This is one of my favorite images of Denali National Park and is from my very first trip with a digital camera—way before I started bracketing images for HDR. While I used a GND filter with a 6-megapixel camera to create this image back in the early 2000s, it still is regularly published and sells as a print despite being from such a low-resolution camera. If I were to shoot it today, I would bracket for HDR and use a much higher resolution camera, but in the end, the image would look nearly exactly the same.

While we aren’t there yet, looking toward the future, I do see a time when even action shots may be possible without the need of a GND filter. Imagine a camera sensor with more dynamic range than the human eye or a camera that shoots so quickly that it can create an in-camera HDR of a fast-moving subject. I doubt these technologies are very far away. Continuous shooting rates are improving, and sensors get better every year. I would guess that within 10 years, we won’t be talking about HDR images anymore, and none of us will even remember carrying and using graduated neutral density filters.

I know I said you can’t shoot moving subjects with HDR, but this is a shot that breaks that rule. I was already shooting HDR brackets from a tripod when the three swans swam quickly into my frame. With no time to grab a GND filter, I just kept shooting bracketed frames at a fast frame rate (so they would lineup as close as possible). I was blown away how well Lightroom was able to blend the bracketed images using its “deghosting” option to create a single image with three sharp swans.

What a great time to be a photographer. We can create images now that weren’t even possible just a few years ago, and it’s only going to get better.

The post How To Use HDR For Nature Photography appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Photographers have always struggled with photographing high-contrast scenes often found at sunrise or sunset. High dynamic range, or HDR techniques can help you capture those scenes with greater detail and a “natural” look, if you use the technique properly.

This image from Glacier National Park was shot with a Singh-Ray GND filter way before HDR came of age. While the GND filter worked well for the composition, I wish I had predicted the future and also bracketed frames for future use when HDR became easer.

Back in the film days, photographers like Galen Rowell helped to pioneer the use of rectangular graduated neutral density filters (GND filters) that were clear on one end and dark on the other. These filters were primarily applied by landscape photographers to darken skies or mountains in order to balance with foreground exposures more closely. Use of these filters made it possible to photograph high-contrast scenes that were previously impossible to properly expose in a single frame.

This image illustrates how a graduated neutral density filter can be used to darken the sky to match the foreground.

While technically possible with film, the advent of digital photography brought with it the new technique of blending multiple exposures of the same scene to create a single HDR image. This new technique quickly caught on and became wildly popular, so much so that it created an entirely new style of images showing more detail in the shadows and highlights than the human eye could see in real life. While this trend became popular, it also created a bit of a backlash among more traditionally minded photographers as well as photo editors. We would hear things like, “that image doesn’t look real” or “that photo looks Photoshopped.” I would argue that it also helped erode the general public’s appreciation of a truly well-crafted, properly exposed—and natural-looking—landscape image.

As someone who often works with photo editors, I noticed that some outright banned the submission of HDR images of any kind. At the time, I was a big user of graduated neutral density filters, with my goal being to make scenes look as natural as possible, but I discovered that in many situations, by carefully and tastefully merging multiple images into HDR files, I could actually create images that looked more realistic than if I had I used my trusty GND filters. So realistic, in fact, that I (and many other photographers) was guilty of quietly sending natural-looking HDR images to big-name publishers with no HDR policies and regularly having them chosen and published. At the time, I was mainly using GND filters, but it was clear that the future was going to be with HDR once the process became easier.

HDR technique used on a scene near Lake Tahoe

This photograph from Carson Pass near Lake Tahoe is one of my first successful HDR images. While I also shot the scene using a GND filter, I ended up being able to create a more natural-looking image by blending the bracketed files in Lightroom versus the harsher GND-filtered image.

HDR Photography Today

Those first few years of HDR were a bit of the wild west as people discovered what was possible, and some way-over-the-top material gave HDR images a bad name. But fast forward to 2020, and now HDR images are the norm rather than the exception. Software that was once overly complex and often created garish images just a few years ago is now so easy to use, making it possible to shoot high-contrast scenes that photographers just a decade ago wouldn’t even have bothered shooting.

A scene that benefits from the advantages of HDR

This shot from Joshua Tree National Park is a prime example of a scene where HDR works better than a GND filter. Bracketing for HDR allowed me to hold the sky exposure and also open up the shadows of the rocks. While a GND filter would have worked to darken the sky, I wouldn’t have been able to open up the shadowed rocks nearly as much.

With Adobe Lightroom, we have the ability to create a single blended image from multiple exposures with a click of a button. The composite image can then be further adjusted with all of Lightroom’s tools, but now with much more dynamic range than a single exposure would have—I can open shadows or save highlights many stops beyond what a single RAW file from even the best cameras available can produce. And I’m able to make these adjustments locally as needed, rather than only being able to adjust exposure globally as with GND filters. There are more complicated, specialized HDR programs that might give you a slight edge over the Lightroom method, but Lightroom is so quick and so user friendly that I don’t even bother using those programs anymore.

How To Use HDR

Because of the ease of HDR, one common mistake I see now when working with my workshop students is that they bracket nearly every single composition, even when their camera sensor can easily handle the contrast range of the scene. There are times when HDR is useful to gain information in the highlights and shadows, but there are also times when you are just wasting card space—and, more importantly, your time when editing. When you bracket exposures of every scene, you have that many more frames to wade through when selecting your best images.

In this photo from Glacier National Park, bracketing for HDR allowed me to control the exposure more naturally in select areas of the image far better than if I had used a GND filter.

The easiest way to see if you need to start bracketing for HDR is to frequently check your histogram to make sure you are properly exposing your scene, and also if you are losing information on one or both ends of the tonal range. Once you begin exceeding the range of the histogram, that is when you start bracketing for an HDR image.

When bracketing, I typically shoot groups of three images (not five), with one shot underexposed, one properly exposed and one overexposed. My exposure adjustment between frames is slightly scene dependent, but typically I bracket in two- or possibly three-stop increments.

Also, remember that what your meter says is properly exposed isn’t always the case. Check that histogram, especially in complicated lighting situations.

Traditional Filters Are Still Useful

You might think the days of carrying graduated neutral density filters are over, but the reality is that no matter how good the abilities of HDR have become, situations do still arise when a GND filter is better.

For most static, tripod-based shooting of landscapes, HDR is usually the best option, but remember you have to bracket multiple frames for blending later. What if you are shooting hand-held or shooting a fast-moving subject? Some or all of your bracketed frames won’t line up correctly anymore. There is some great software magic that deals with “ghosting” or helps line up images, but any time movement is involved, using a GND filter to bring the scene’s contrast back into the range of the sensor is still the way to go.

this image does not use HDR, but a graduated filter instead

This is one of my favorite images of Denali National Park and is from my very first trip with a digital camera—way before I started bracketing images for HDR. While I used a GND filter with a 6-megapixel camera to create this image back in the early 2000s, it still is regularly published and sells as a print despite being from such a low-resolution camera. If I were to shoot it today, I would bracket for HDR and use a much higher resolution camera, but in the end, the image would look nearly exactly the same.

While we aren’t there yet, looking toward the future, I do see a time when even action shots may be possible without the need of a GND filter. Imagine a camera sensor with more dynamic range than the human eye or a camera that shoots so quickly that it can create an in-camera HDR of a fast-moving subject. I doubt these technologies are very far away. Continuous shooting rates are improving, and sensors get better every year. I would guess that within 10 years, we won’t be talking about HDR images anymore, and none of us will even remember carrying and using graduated neutral density filters.

I know I said you can’t shoot moving subjects with HDR, but this is a shot that breaks that rule. I was already shooting HDR brackets from a tripod when the three swans swam quickly into my frame. With no time to grab a GND filter, I just kept shooting bracketed frames at a fast frame rate (so they would lineup as close as possible). I was blown away how well Lightroom was able to blend the bracketed images using its “deghosting” option to create a single image with three sharp swans.

What a great time to be a photographer. We can create images now that weren’t even possible just a few years ago, and it’s only going to get better.

The post How To Use HDR For Nature Photography appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Tuesday, June 23, 2020

Photo By David Shield

Photo By David Shield

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Remote Monument Valley Sunrise” by David Shield. Location: Monument Valley, Arizona.

“After setting up to shoot the classic Monument Valley scene from Hunts Mesa, a colorful sunrise inspired me to quickly change plans and capture this lesser photographed scene instead,” says Shield.

Nikon D810, Nikon 24-70mm f2.8. Exposure: 4 sec., f/22, ISO 100.

See more of David Shield’s photography at www.davidshieldphotography.com.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Monday, June 22, 2020

Photo By Theresa Ditson

Photo By Theresa Ditson

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Electric Dusk” by Theresa Ditson. Location: Prescott, Arizona.

“A stacked long-exposure image of three lightning strikes as an isolated summer monsoon storm moved across my view,” describes Ditson. ‘I was grateful to have witnessed this storm become so powerful but also grateful that it ultimately began to recede!”

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photographing Silhouettes

In this week’s tip, I take you on a final journey into the land of silhouettes. The main focus of part 1 was to help you see what a silhouette is, learn how to create them and wind up with powerful images. In part 2, I targeted what to look for with regards to light and how to obtain a good exposure to create the silhouetted subject. In this final part of the series, I take you on a voyage that stops at a number of ports. In each, I explore the various components of composition. If this is your first week to join the cruise, be sure to look back at the previous two week’s sojourn so you can dive deeply into the world of successfully photographing silhouettes.

Photographing Silhouettes

Images that stop you in your tracks and make you say “wow” have three important criteria in common: the light is excellent and complementary to the subject, proper exposure is made based on studying the histogram and the composition leaves the viewer finding balance and harmony of how the subjects interrelate. The rules that apply to good composition of any subject matter also apply to silhouettes. The rule of thirds should be used, the subject should be of adequate size relative to the rest of the photo’s real estate, the use of a leading line should not be overlooked and all components of the subjects should be in balance and have symmetry.

The rule of thirds suggests you place the main subject at a “power point” within the frame. These power points appear near the top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right positions within the viewfinder. If you were to trace an imaginary tic-tac-toe board over the ground glass, the power points appear where the lines intersect: top third—right or left, bottom third—right or left and middle third—right or left. When a power point is used to position a subject, the photo has much more impact than if the subject was placed dead center. A centered important element produces a static and mundane design.

Photographing Silhouettes

When it comes to image real estate, exhaust all possibilities. Make images where you use a telephoto in addition to a medium wide. Doing so provides a photo where you construct a tight portrait and an environmental portrait. You now have two different images of the same subject. Repeat the same so you cover both a vertical and horizontal format. You now have four potentially great images. In that photography is a subtractive process (you see the entire scene and you eliminate clutter based on the  composition), a full-frame grab of the subject can eliminate a lot of potential distractions. In an environmental portrait, make sure the silhouette and background shapes make sense.

Photographing Silhouettes

Leading lines bring the viewer’s eye to the primary focal point. Elements are composed so every part of what remains in the silhouette is built with balance and harmony. If there are secondary subjects, be sure to find a location where they, too, are placed relative to the rules of good composition. For instance, let’s say you are inside a cave. Right on the edge of the opening stands a bull elk in silhouette. Place the lead actor, the elk, in the bottom of the frame and make the arch of the cave the supporting actor. You now have a silhouetted elk within a silhouetted arch—there’s balance and harmony and the rim of the cave acts as a leading line to the elk.

Photographing Silhouettes

When I lead my safaris to Tanzania, I make it a priority to look for silhouettes in early or late light. When we come across a situation that works, all information contained within the three most recent Tips of the Week is utilized. Use them on your own to make some powerful etchings of form, shape and outline.  

Visit www.russburdenphotography.com for information about his nature photo safaris to Tanzania.

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Photo By Beth Mancuso

Photo By Beth Mancuso

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Glacier National Park Self Portrait” by Beth Mancuso. Location: Montana.

“I shot this on our summer road trip to Montana,” recalls Mancuso. “We spent a week at Glacier National Park, and it’s the most beautiful place I have ever visited!”

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Photo By Joshua Moore

Photo By Joshua Moore

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Golden Forest” by Joshua Moore. Location: Blue Ridge Parkway, North Carolina.

“I was out at the Black Balsam area along the Blue Ridge Parkway looking to capture a sunrise,” explains Moore. “As I watched the fog approach me, an opening in the clouds illuminated the fog behind a row of trees casting a beautiful golden glow at sunrise. The trees behind the fog were illuminated as well, adding a nice depth of field.”

See more of Moore’s photography at www.joshtmoore.com.

Nikon D7200. Exposure: 1/40 sec., ƒ/8, ISO 100.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

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Friday, June 19, 2020

Photo By Gene Putney

Photo By Gene Putney

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Hungry” by Gene Putney. Location: North Park, Colorado.

“One of my favorite annual photo excursions in late summer is photographing moose in Northern Colorado,” says Putney. “In August, I went for two days and had a variety of good photo opportunities. One of my favorite images I captured is this moose calf that was enjoying itself as it ate in a patch of wildflowers.”

Nikon D500. Exposure: 1/320 sec., f/6.3, ISO 400.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Gene Putney appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Sigma today introduced the fifth “DG DN” lens in its growing lineup for full-frame mirrorless cameras, the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS. It’s available in both L-Mount (developed jointly by Sigma, Leica and Panasonic), and Sony E-Mount.

Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS

The third zoom in Sigma’s DG DN series for full-frame mirrorless, it joins the 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN Art and 24-70mm F2.8 DG DN Art. Together, these lenses cover a range that will accommodate most outdoor photographer’s needs, but for wildlife and sports shooters who want more telephoto reach, Sigma has also introduced two teleconverters for the system, the 1.4x TC-1411 and 2x and TC-2011.

The 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS is priced at $949. The 1.4x and 2x teleconverters are priced at $399 and $429, respectively. All three have expected availability of July 10.

Along with the new lens and converters, Sigma also introduce the USB Dock UD-11 for Sigma L-Mount and Canon EF-M Mount Sigma lenses, an accessory that allows you to easily update lens firmware and customize lens settings. It will also be available on July 10 with a list price of $59.

Additionally, Sigma will begin offering three fast ƒ/1.4 primes in L-Mount beginning July 10: the 16mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary ($449), 30mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary ($339) and 56mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary ($479). For more information, see the press release below.

###

Sigma Unveils 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary Telephoto Lens for Full-Frame Mirrorless Cameras; Mirrorless-Exclusive Teleconverters; USB Dock for Sigma Mirrorless Lenses; and F1.4 Mirrorless L-Mount Lens Trio.

Sigma Corporation today made the following announcements:

  1. Launch of the 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary, Sigma’s first ultra telephoto lens designed exclusively for full-frame mirrorless cameras.
  2. Introduction of two new teleconverters designed exclusively for Sigma mirrorless lenses:
  • TC-1411 magnifies lens focal length by 1.4x.
  • TC-2011 magnifies lens focal length by 2x.
  1. Release of the Sigma USB Dock UD-11 for L-Mount and EF-M Mount mirrorless lenses.
  2. Availability of 16mm F1.4, 30mm F1.4 and 56mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary lenses in L-Mount. 

Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary – Compact Size, Ultra Telephoto Performance 

The 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary lens is Sigma’s first full-frame mirrorless telephoto zoom lens. Designed from the ground up for mirrorless camera systems, its new optical formula ensures edge-to-edge sharpness and high-contrast image quality throughout its entire focal range. The lens construction is made up of 16 groups and 22 elements, with one FLD and four SLDs used for the effective correction of aberrations and distortions. Its superior image quality and compact size make it an excellent companion lens to the previously released full-frame mirrorless zooms from Sigma, the 14-24mm F2.8 DG DN Art and 24-70mm F2.8 DG DN Art. It will be available in Sony E-mount and L-mount. 

The fifth Sigma lens designed specifically for full-frame mirrorless camera systems, the 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary further expands the possibilities of mirrorless camera photography. Thanks to the stepping motor system that is optimized for both phase detection AF and contrast AF, the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary makes shooting video with eye-tracking AF very smooth. It consistently achieves high levels of optical performance and makes the most of its capabilities as a zoom lens at every focal length from wide to close-up shots to telephoto photography.

When paired with the new Sigma Teleconverter TC-1411 and/or TC-2011 (sold separately / for L-Mount only), which were exclusively developed for the use with mirrorless cameras, the Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary gives photographers a “super telephoto” range with a focal length of up to 800mm while still benefiting from a compact lens and effective AF. It functions as a 140-560mm F7-9 AF ultra-telephoto lens with the Sigma Teleconverter TC-1411, and as a 200-800mm F10-12.6 AF ultra-telephoto lens with the Sigma Teleconverter TC-2011.

The Sigma 100-400mm F5-6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary will be available on July 10, 2020 for $949.00 USD.

Sigma USB Dock UD-11 – Easily Update Lens Firmware and Customize Settings

Designed exclusively for Sigma L-Mount and Canon EF-M Mount mirrorless lenses, the Sigma USB Dock UD-11 allows users to update firmware and customize settings on lenses in these lineups.

In addition to firmware updates, users can adjust the sensitivity of MF function* speed. It employs the new USB Type-C connection.

*Scope of adjustment varies depending on specifications of the individual product.

The Sigma USB Dock UD-11 will be available on July 10, 2020 for $59.00 USD.

Sigma Mirrorless Teleconverter TC-1411 and TC-2011

The Sigma Teleconverter TC-1411 and TC-2011 are designed exclusively for use with Sigma L-mount mirrorless lenses. Mounted between a lens and the camera body, the TC-1411 magnifies the focal length of the camera by 1.4x, and the TC-2011 by 2x. Designed to complement Sigma’s renowned optical formulas, these teleconverters preserve the image quality of the lens while extending the focal length for added zoom capability.

The new teleconverters have a dust- and splash-proof construction comparable to that of the Sigma Sports line lenses, and can withstand harsh outdoor shooting environments when combined with a dust- and splash-proof camera body and lens. Lightweight and compact, these accessories will upgrade lens performance to an “ultra telephoto” focal length without the need for additional lenses.

The Sigma Teleconverter TC-1411 and TC-2011 will be available on July 10, 2020 for $399.00  USD (TC-1411) and $429.00 USD (TC-2011).

F1.4 Mirrorless Trio Now Available in Native L-Mount – Compact, Affordable, High Quality 

Sigma’s F1.4 Mirrorless Trio – the 16mm, 30mm, and 56mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary lenses – each benefit from a fast aperture of F1.4 to achieve sufficient amount of bokeh and admirable brightness even with APS-C size cameras, which tend to have smaller bokeh effects compared to 35mm full size systems. Each lens has a compact and lightweight body that is perfect for daily use as they cover the range from true wide angle to normal to portrait. Stepping motors ensure smooth, swift, quiet autofocus for both still and video capture. In addition to the upcoming L-Mount variations, these products are available for Sony E-mount, Canon EF-M mount and Micro Four Thirds camera systems.

  • 16mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary ($449 USD) – High performance wide angle prime in a compact package.
  • 30mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary ($339 USD) – Lighter and brighter Art line image quality with Contemporary compactness.
  • 56mm F1.4 DC DN Contemporary ($479 USD) – Exceptional image quality and smooth AF for video shooting.

Sigma F1.4 Mirrorless Trio lenses will begin shipping on July 10, 2020. Pricing detailed above.

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Thursday, June 18, 2020

Congratulations to Gerry Groeber for winning the recent Isolation Assignment with the image, “Ghost Tree.” See more of Groeber’s photography at www.gerrygroeber.com.

View the winning image and a selection of submissions in the gallery below. And be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

[See image gallery at www.outdoorphotographer.com]

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Photo By Lori Hibbett

Photo By Lori Hibbett

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Death Valley Shadows” by Lori Hibbett. Location: Death Valley National Park, California.

“I love this shot of the kids hiking up a sand dune,” says Hibbett. “Can you tell?! I spend a lot of time in Death Valley.”

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Lori Hibbett appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Photo By Linn Smith

Photo By Linn Smith

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Furtive Search” by Linn Smith. Location: Oviedo, Florida.

“A breeding white Ibis is seen furtively scurrying across the shoreline of Lake Jessup located in Central Florida in a continuing effort to find food,” says Smith.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III, Canon EF 100-400mm f /4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens. Exposure: 1/5000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 1600.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Linn Smith appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Photo By Jon Reynolds

Photo By Jon Reynolds

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Painted Storm” by Jon Reynolds. Location: Badlands National Park, South Dakota.

“It’s amazing to see a late-summer storm approach in the Badlands,” says Reynolds. “The distance can be quite deceptive because even though it appeared quite a ways off, the storm was on top of me in just a few minutes. This was taken in the Painted Hills section of the park.”

Sony A99, Zeiss 16-35 f.8 lens at 20mm. Exposure: 1/15 sec., f/10, ISO 200.

Photo of the Day is chosen from various OP galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and the OP Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the OP website homepage, FacebookTwitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Jon Reynolds appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



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Wednesday, June 17, 2020

Photographing Silhouettes, Part 2

Silhouetted images that pop off the page are graphic in quality, have instantly recognizable subjects and are bold and dominant. Think about the outline of the Grand Teton Range at sunset. The shapes of their peaks are one of the most identifiable ranges in the United States. However, silhouettes don’t have to have bold qualities that show the dominance and stature of a mountain range. A mature weeping willow that stands by a lake’s edge is easily discernible by its form and structure. The feeling it provides is one of softness, tranquility and peace. On the other hand, an outline of a small handgun can instill fear into the viewer. When photographing silhouettes, the size of the subject has nothing to do with how powerful the silhouette can impact the senses.

Photographing Silhouettes, Part 2

Quite often, a subject photographed as a silhouette can leave a much heavier impression on a viewer than if the same subject was front or side lit. If you are close to my age group, I’m sure you remember the opening scene to the Alfred Hitchcock show. His profiled face walks into a silhouette of his body. It’s one of the most iconic openings of a television program all done in silhouette (“Goooooddd eeeveennning…”—I can still hear his words).  Think about classic outlined items—all are easily identifiable by their shape: the Apple logo, ET in front of the moon on a bicycle, a skylined giraffe at sunset and the Eiffel Tower for example. For something that contains no color, a silhouette is very powerful. 

Photographing Silhouettes, Part 2

When you create an outdoor silhouette, the light behind the subject has to be significantly brighter than the light that falls upon it. Because of this restriction, time of day, weather, subject placement and the angle of the sun all impact whether or not a silhouette will be successful. For me, the best time of day to make them is within the first 15 minutes of sunrise or the 15 minutes right before the sun sets.  The subject has to be on the same horizon as the rising or setting sun. The sky is bright and often contains rich and vibrant color.

Dawn and dusk also work, but shutter speeds can be too slow to sharply record a mobile animal. The sky at these four times of day often has a graduated effect, which produces different densities of light as the distance between the horizon and sky increases. Clouds can add vibrant color but it’s absolutely essential you note the density of the cloud. If a thick part of the sky merges with any part of your silhouetted subject, a density merger is created. When this is the case, the contrast between the sky and the black silhouette is severely narrowed. When this occurs, the silhouette and the sky can reflect the same amount of light, which doesn’t provide separation.

Photographing Silhouettes, Part 2

I encourage you to experiment with your color balance when you make silhouettes. Yes, it can be altered in post processing, but by doing it in-camera, it can be very powerful. I often set my white balance to cloudy, but my go-to is shade. If the subject is large enough, hide the sun behind the silhouette to add impact. Let it slightly peek out from behind the subject and stop your lens down to ƒ/22. This is how a sun star is created. When looking at the sun through a camera, be very aware of potential eye damage and take caution if you try this technique. Rim light can be positive if the sun is placed directly behind the subject. Whenever possible, I incorporate this effect in a way to make sure “I Exhaust All Possibilities”—another one of my business slogans.

Photographing Silhouettes, Part 2

With regards to exposure, it behooves you to bracket. I shoot a triple burst of images, each at either 1 or 2 stop increments. If needed, I merge all three exposures into HDR software to tame the contrast. If your color balance is set to shade or if mother nature provides warm light and a dramatic sky, ignore the luminosity channel and base the exposure on the RED histogram found in the Playback menu. When I take an exposure reading, I do so on an area of blank sky adjacent to the subject or sun. Silhouettes can be made in midday light if the subject is in deep shadow and the sky is bright.

Be sure to review part 1 and stay tuned for part 3 in next week’s Tip of the Week.

Visit www.russburdenphotography.com for information about his nature photo safaris to Tanzania.

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