Enter Slide 1 Title Here

Enter Slide 2 Title Here

Enter Slide 3 Title Here

Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Photo By Susan Taylor

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “California Poppies” by Susan Taylor. Location: Pine Flat Fresno County, California.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Susan Taylor appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/1AKdyeX

Monday, May 30, 2022

Photo By Gary Fua

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Epilogue” by Gary Fua.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Gary Fua appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/kYv2EQD

I love to photograph at dawn and dusk. I also love the light when the sun hovers near the horizon. If there are clouds in the sky, the color can be dramatic. If the sky is clear just before the sun rises or after it sets, a cobalt blue color provides a wonderful backdrop. Shooting into this light means it’s time to turn your thoughts to silhouettes. If you try to reveal detail in a subject, you’ll lose the intensity, drama and color in the sky. So, expose for the sky and let your subject go black. The drama it produces can be very rewarding. Here’s how to seek out silhouettes in nature photography. 

Choosing Subject Matter

When seeking out silhouettes in nature photography, look for a subject that has a distinct shape and form. It will be reduced to black, so it’s essential the outline is easily identifiable and has character. For instance, a large boulder will turn out as a huge black blob and have no interest. On the other hand, a bare winter-skylined cottonwood with intriguing branch formations against a dramatic sky is ideal.  

Exposure When Shooting Silhouettes

To capture incredible silhouettes in nature photography, base your exposure on the sky. The goal is to preserve sky detail and saturate the intense color just before the sun rises or after it sets. If the silhouette takes up a large area, be sure to bias your exposure to the minus side as the meter will try to add detail to the area you intentionally want to fall into an outline. This will cause the sky to overexpose. To create the effect you desire, subtract exposure to deepen the blacks of the silhouette and maintain the vivid sky.

Dark Subject Against Dark Cloud

When sporadic clouds appear in the western or eastern sky, they can be your ally or your worst enemy. If they don’t reflect color and unfortunately remain gray, the dark gray clouds merge with the silhouette, which makes it difficult to discern the silhouette from the cloud. Conversely, when you wait for the cloud to light up, the vibrance creates great separation. Be patient and wait for color if you want successful silhouettes in nature photography. If the atmospherics don’t cooperate and prevent the clouds from becoming illuminated, chalk it up to a nice try and wait for another day.

Composition When Shooting Silhouettes

If the sky has extreme drama, zoom out and accentuate the silhouette using the clouds to either frame the outline or to offset it against the color. Be sure to create both verticals and horizontals and place the subject using the rule of thirds. For the sake of diversity, zoom the lens to its telephoto setting to place the emphasis on the silhouette. Again, be careful how you meter. The more space the silhouetted area takes up, the more you’ll need to compensate to the minus side. In addition to zooming all the way in, be sure to try a medium-range focal length. As I like to say, “Exhaust All Possibilities.” Regardless of the focal length, work quickly and efficiently as the color doesn’t last long.

White Balance

Experiment using different in-camera white balances. Bias them toward cloudy and shade to warm up the tones in the sky. The same effect can be done in post-processing. Experiment with the white balance sliders in Camera RAW or Lightroom. Move the magenta and yellow triangles to the right until you find the color that clicks for you. A cobalt blue sky also works and is commonly found on super clear days when the atmosphere is clean from particles and dust, so don’t overlook a cooler color spectrum to add diversity to your images.

To learn more about this subject, join me on a photo safari to Tanzania. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com to get more information.

The post Silhouettes In Nature Photography appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/aq1KDvb

Sunday, May 29, 2022

Photo By Marti Phillips

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Teton Storm” by Marti Phillips. Location: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.

“A view of the Tetons breaking through after an early-morning storm,” describes Phillips.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Marti Phillips appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/69NBAgl

Saturday, May 28, 2022

Photo By Heather Nicole

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Lounging Leopard” by Heather Nicole. Location: Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.

“A lounging leopard enjoys the last rays of sunlight after a warm afternoon nap,” describes Heather Nicole.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Heather Nicole appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/avSeZBz

Friday, May 27, 2022

Congratulations to Jody Partin for winning the Spotlit Subjects Assignment with the image, “Center Stage.”

View the winning image and a selection of submissions in the gallery below. And be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

[See image gallery at www.outdoorphotographer.com]

The post Spotlit Subjects Assignment Winner Jody Partin appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/9da4sCr

Photo By Linn Smith

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “A Searching Examination” by Linn Smith. Location: Oviedo, Florida.

“Intent on what is happening upward, a cattle egret gives the occurrence careful scrutiny,” says Smith.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Linn Smith appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/yIlqN9L

Photo By Lea Scaddan

“A western gray kangaroo male was doing his own thing when approached by another male who wanted to provoke him,” explains Lea Scaddan. “It quickly turned into a full-blown confrontation with both males as they fought for dominance of the females. The male kangaroo uses its strong tail as support so he can kick his opponent with his hind legs. Fortunately for the other male, the kangaroo on the right misjudged the kick and missed him altogether.”

See more of Lea Scaddan’s work at leascaddan.com.au.

Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM, Canon Extender EF 1.4x III (700mm). Exposure: 1/1250 sec., Æ’/5.6, ISO 2000.

The post Last Frame: Missed appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/NfoFkD1

As a nature photographer, my primary goal is to help those who view my work to appreciate the value of pure, unspoiled wilderness. Creating captivating images that seize and sustain the viewer’s attention is key. The longer you can get someone to look at a photograph, the greater the odds that they will connect with its subject matter. In this fast-paced world where people can consume hundreds of images and videos in a matter of minutes, why should they stop scrolling for your image? While the answer is multi-faceted, practicing what I call the “art of mystery” through abstract nature photography can be very effective for creating more engaging images.

Example of abstract nature photography

This scene leaves out familiar objects, so when many people look at it, they believe it’s an aerial shot taken from high up above the landscape. These puddles reflecting light can appear to be larger branches of rivers. Regardless of how it’s interpreted, it is impossible to determine its actual size.

Of course, you could try to grab people’s attention another way. Turning up the volume by cranking saturation, radically changing the colors and shapes of objects or creating outlandish composites can result in images that scream, “Look at me!” But after a while, you’ll find the only place to go with the volume is back down. If everyone is shouting at once, no one can be heard. How much better to capture and hold a viewer’s gaze through subtle whispers and faint clues, creating a mystery for them to unravel.

Techniques For Abstract Nature Photography

Depart From The Literal

One of the ways I create mystery to lure people in is by making photographs of less literal scenes, where the subject’s identity is not easily recognizable at first glance. A composition that requires a closer look will raise questions, engage with the viewer’s imagination and intrigue their curiosity. If I can get someone to ask, “What am I looking at?” I know that I have their full attention.

When I say that in a mysterious, abstract photograph of nature, the identity of the subject isn’t immediately obvious, I’m not implying that it doesn’t have a clear subject. What I mean is that instead of the subject just being a literal object (e.g., a tree, rock, waterfall or mountain), it is more a visual element or idea, such as a design, pattern, color, shape, form or texture.

Whatever the subject is, literal or figurative, it should always be well defined, and the viewer’s eye should be led to it through the visual flow of the scene. No matter how abstract a scene is, if it does not have a subject, then it is not a successful photograph. An image without a subject is ultimately about nothing and has no story to tell.

Abstract image of icicles

Without showing where this patch of icicles begins or ends, the image makes it appear they continue for infinity. It is also impossible to know their scale since there is nothing familiar to compare them to.

Tension & Intention

To create thought-provoking abstract imagery, there needs to be some tension, which comes from withholding information. If you immediately give everything away, with nothing left to discover, people will feel no urge to continue looking. However, if you only provide subtle clues, we can’t help but try and solve the riddle. By nature, human beings love to figure things out. Our minds are built for it, and we can’t stand not knowing the end of a story, particularly a story we care about. I love to read books on psychology, so I can better understand the minds of my audience, how they function and what makes them tick. As artists, we can play on these human instincts and tendencies to create work that is both visually pleasing and engaging.

To my way of thinking, a great image is one that falls between two extremes: being too boringly obvious to care about or too confusingly vague to understand. It should create tension but also offer some relief. This pulls viewers in and keeps them engaged as you continue to lay breadcrumbs that lead to your desired destination. Let them wander but not get lost. It’s easy to create a disorienting and confusing image by randomly pressing the shutter while pointing in no specific direction, but the result is nonsense because the placement of elements has no real intention. Creating an abstract image with tension and mystery and that raises questions—while having a decipherable meaning—requires deliberation.

I always laugh when photographers obsess over gear and credit the aesthetic quality of an image to the equipment with which it was made. This is as absurd as saying that what makes a novel good is the computer it was typed on. Similarly, the place, subject, lighting or weather conditions alone don’t make a great photograph. These are just raw elements that have no extra meaning on their own. Successful images come down to the way in which the photographer intentionally organizes these elements, with an artist’s eye for what to leave within the frame and what to leave out. This mindful process is how the artist gives the objects of a scene additional meaning.

Abstract image of aspen tree trunks

By creating compression and hiding where the trees begin and end, I make them appear to be stacked tightly together, and it is difficult to tell which ones are in front of or behind one another. The scene becomes more about a pattern of lines than literal trees and gives the feeling that the forest was much more crowded than it was.

Less Is More

Even more important than what you include, I would argue, is what you choose to exclude. You might exclude something from your composition for several good reasons: It detracts from the scene, it goes against the theme, it’s overpowering, it’s uninteresting, it’s not visually pleasing, it throws off the balance or it’s redundant. But if you hope to create a sense of mystery in your image and build tension for the viewer, you need to go even further.

One of the easiest ways to hide important information about a subject and create mystery is by practicing exclusion. When you include everything, it may result in a pretty scene, but you give it all away; very few questions remain. On the other hand, when you intentionally exclude context such as the light source or objects that can give away the scale, setting, brightness or identity of your subject, you create a stage for the viewer’s imagination to run wild. Instead of telling the viewer what it is a photograph of, you leave that open to their interpretation.

Hiding The Light Source

When I scroll through social media, I can’t help but notice that most images include the sky. There is nothing inherently wrong with this. In many of my images, I also show the sky, but sometimes doing so creates an artistic limitation that I think is rarely considered. When you include the sky in your scene, not only does it inevitably make it feel more literal, but it also restricts how you can develop the image in post-processing. The sky will almost always be the brightest part of your scene, especially when there is no direct light on the landscape. This is because the source of all natural light comes from the sky.

By showing the light source, you give a reference as to how the light should be—has to be—in the rest of the landscape, since the light hitting anywhere else can’t be brighter than where it’s originating from. This inhibits your ability to raise the luminosity of your subject as much as you need to really help it stand out. If you’re not careful, at a certain point, your subject will cease to look realistic and instead create distraction for the viewer. They will fixate on thoughts like, “Why is this so unnaturally bright?” instead of the scene itself.

Image illustrating hiding the light source in an abstract landscape photograph

I photographed this scene almost an hour after sunset. There was only a faint, ambient light softly illuminating the landscape, and the lack of direct light washed out its color, making it appear whiter. Since I excluded the light source, I was able to overexpose it and raise the luminosity extensively in post-processing to bring out the soft highlights and shadows and give it this serene, ethereal, pure feeling.

If you exclude your light source, you don’t give the viewer any reference as to how the light actually was in the scene. This allows you to raise the luminosity as much as you want without leaving any hint as to how much you have departed from reality. Thus, hiding the light source can create a pleasant confusion for the viewer and complement the abstractness of a scene by making objects more illuminated than they would be in reality. An example of this is shooting scenes in the soft twilight and raising their brightness when they are actually very dark. This can contribute to an ethereal, dreamlike and mysterious look in a scene.

Omitting Context

When we show what surrounds our subject (location, season, time of day, etc.), we provide context. Sometimes this benefits an image by adding to the mood or story. A photograph that clearly represents the fall season by including colorful leaves can make it feel more peaceful and inviting. A scene that shows surrounding snow and bare trees can make it feel quiet and cold. But sometimes, providing context for certain subjects by showing their surroundings makes them feel too ordinary, e.g., a frozen puddle. This can cause the viewer to fixate on the literal object while overlooking artistic elements like pattern, shape and form. It causes you to just see a frozen puddle along the trail rather than an intricate display of repeating lines created by its cracks and ripples.

When trying to create images that portray wildness and pristine nature, giving context can also be detrimental to a photograph. Say you find a nice stand of trees alongside the highway. If you include the highway, passing cars and guardrail in the foreground, your image will take on an entirely different feeling than if you were to exclude those man-made objects altogether.

Abstract image of snowy aspen trees

I photographed this beautiful stand of snowy aspen trees right off the side of the road. I was standing behind a guard rail, shooting from a distance, but you wouldn’t know it from the way that I isolated the trees without revealing their location.

There is no way for the viewer to see what you don’t show. Take advantage of this and only show what you want them to see. You can create a completely new scene and story this way and give the feeling of remote wilderness even while shooting in your own suburban backyard. Without context, people are forced to ask questions, further adding to the mystery of the scene.

Removing Scale

Scale is another very powerful visual element that should be created intentionally. Sometimes revealing the scale of something can be very visually striking, displaying its insignificance compared to a vast landscape, for example, or showing how it dominates the landscape by dwarfing everything else around it.

However, the effect that can be created by entirely eliminating the scale of your subject is also something that should be equally considered while creating compositions. By removing scale, a small formation of ice can appear enormous, or a trickling cascade can seem like a waterfall. And removing scale doesn’t just apply to making small objects appear larger. It can also be applied to grand landscapes, especially aerial scenes, making them look miniature.

Example of an abstract photo of nature that appears to be something it isn't

While many people view this image as a small, intimate scene—resembling an agate—it was actually a very large scene, photographed from the air around 1,000 feet up. By excluding the horizon and any recognizable objects, I made it nearly impossible to determine the actual scale.

Removing the scale of the scene by hiding all references is among the best ways to create an abstract image full of mystery, one that plays with the viewer’s imagination. It will cause them to sit and wonder, “How big is this scene?” It is also a great way to avoid betraying your presence as a photographer. When people look at my images, I don’t want them to think of them as photographs in the sense of knowing where I stood, what lens I used or how far I zoomed in. An awareness of the photographer creates a sense of separation between the scene and the viewer. Instead, I want them to be fully immersed in the scene itself, as if they were looking through a window into a new world.

The best movies are the ones where, for a moment, you forget that you are watching a movie altogether, and your body and emotions react as if you were living the experience yourself. If you become too aware that you are just watching a movie, you are immediately pulled out of the story, and it ceases to affect you.

Optical Illusion

What I enjoy most about photographing abstract scenes is the ability to depart from reality and create entirely new worlds that don’t exist in actuality. Purposely not showing where things begin and end is a simple way to compose surreal-looking images, even from ordinary scenery. By not revealing the edges of your subject, you can create the illusion that patterns, layers and designs continue on forever, making them feel much grander than they really are. A carpet of leaves that feels endless, like it could cover the entire world, is much more powerful than just a small patch of leaves along the side of the road.

Abstract image of fall leaves floating in water

Since you can’t see where this puddle of floating maple leaves begins or ends, as it overlaps the edges of the frame, it appears to go on forever. One can now only guess its true size since I have omitted that information.

You can also build a disorienting effect that raises questions by scooting further back and zooming in to create compression along with tighter framing. This brings everything in the scene to the same visual plane while at the same time hiding where objects begin or end. It disorients viewers, as it’s hard to tell whether objects are in the foreground, middle ground or background, and as a result, makes them try to figure it out. It can also create the illusion that there is no space between them. An example of this would be shooting a group of trees and excluding the bases of their trunks and the tops of their crowns.

Variety In A Portfolio

While I’m obviously a huge fan of mysterious abstract scenes, I think that somewhat literal scenes also have a place in every nature photographer’s portfolio. It is important to have variety in a gallery or group of images, with some creating tension and others providing relief. Too much of the same thing over and over again causes viewers to become visually fatigued and lose interest. For nature photographers, it is great to show a wide range of subjects that express the incredible diversity of our planet.

It should be noted that none of the above techniques apply exclusively to abstract scenes. To a lesser extent, they can be used in every image you make in order to create mystery and raise questions. The degree to which you practice them should always come down to what it is you want to show and the story you want to tell. Let the lighting, subject and mood of the scene dictate the direction you take.

Gaining a deep understanding of the principles and techniques I have shared with you will help guide you in creating your compositions. You will also find yourself less limited by your surroundings and weather conditions and more capable of arranging compelling photographs, no matter where you go or the time of day. Whatever kind of photographer you consider yourself to be, I believe that with a decent technical understanding and enough creativity, you can make even ordinary objects look extraordinary. The only limit is your imagination.

As a photographer working to inspire an attitude of conservation in a world that values natural places less and less each day, I intentionally create images to show others that wilderness has much more to offer us in its unspoiled state than anything we could possibly extract from it materially. I feel it is important that I make photographs that are unique, revealing a side of nature that people have never seen before—to show the world as it looks through my eyes. When I share an image, my one hope is that people will feel the grandeur of nature, appreciate its incomparable beauty and be carried away by its mystery.


See more of Eric Bennett’s work at bennettfilm.com.

The post The Art of Mystery appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/TtwSsge

Thursday, May 26, 2022

Photo By Christopher Baker

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Pelican Parade” by Christopher Baker. Location: Decatur, Alabama.

“A group of pelicans enjoying the sunset from the Flint Creek in Decatur, Alabama,” describes Baker.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Christopher Baker appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/6Q504jk

Wednesday, May 25, 2022

Photo By Craig Bill

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Time Beyond” by Craig Bill. Location: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, California.

“Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park is located in Humboldt County, California, near the town of Orick and is a coastal sanctuary for old-growth Coast Redwood trees,” says Bill. “Beautiful, full fern drenched understory growth is the stage set for these gigantic trees. Plenty of redwoods in this park have reached 300 feet tall. Some like Godwood Creek Giant and Gemini are over 340 feet.

“Besides the overwhelming heights these trees can grow, the variety of yellow, orange and even red fungus and plant habitat immerse you into a scene of incredible beauty and age. Just standing among these old groves easily misplaces your sense of urgency and modern distraction. There’s a connection on a fundamental level that, for me, is hard to defy.

“I really wanted to find a well-arranged grove of redwoods for a panoramic shot that shows how the commanding size of these trees dwarfs all the other surrounding plant life. I found this sloped area that nicely caught this. I really love ‘Time Beyond’ for the way it makes you want to just jump in and explore with playful curiosity.”

See more of Craig Bill’s photography at CraigBill.com.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Craig Bill appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/5KL4OGe

Tuesday, May 24, 2022

Canon EOS R7 front

Canon EOS R7 shown with the new RF-S18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM zoom lens attached.

Canon has introduced the first APS-C sensor cameras in its EOS R mirrorless system, the Canon EOS R7 (32-megapixel) and EOS R10 (24-megapixel). The EOS R7 is the higher performance model of the pair, but both cameras have a lot to offer and are relatively affordable compared to EOS R full-frame models. The editors of our sibling website Imaging Resource had the opportunity to shoot with the new cameras prior to the announcement. Read their initial hands-on impressions.

Canon EOS R7 top

Top view of the Canon EOS R7

Of the two new models, the EOS R7 may be of particular interest to wildlife photographers. While both cameras offer continuous shooting rates of up to 15 fps with their mechanical shutters, the EOS R7 can capture up to 30 fps with its electronic shutter. That’s on par with the continuous shooting speeds of the top professional full-frame cameras. The APS-C sensor’s smaller size means that lenses like the Canon RF100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L IS USM will have extra telephoto reach to help get closer perspectives on distant wildlife. The RF100-500mm, for example, is equivalent to approximately 160-800mm when used with the R7 and R10. This combination of burst shooting speed and sensor magnification is appealing for wildlife photography.

Another noteworthy feature of the EOS R7 is its in-body Coordinated Image Stabilization system that’s capable of 7 stops of correction.

Canon EOS R7 back

Back view of the Canon EOS R7 

Both cameras use an autofocus system with subject detection capabilities derived from the AF system in the current EOS R flagship model, the EOS R3. Both can also record 4K video, though the R10 is limited to 24p and 30p modes, while the EOS R7 is also capable of 60p. For more on the differences of the two cameras and their capabilities compared to full-frame EOS R models, see the hands-on previews at Imaging Resource.

Canon EOS R10 front

Canon EOS R10 shown with the new RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM zoom lens attached.

Along with the new cameras, Canon will also introduce RF-S lenses, a new lens series optimized for APS-C sensor cameras. The first two RF-S lenses that will arrive with the EOS R7 and R10 are the RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM and RF-S18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM which Canon positions as the standard zoom lenses for the cameras, with equivalent focal ranges of 29-72mm and 29-240mm respectively.

Expected availability for the new cameras and lenses is “late 2022.” List prices: $1,499 (EOS R7 body only); $979 (EOS R10 body only); $479 (RF-S18-150mm); $299 (RF-S18-45mm). The cameras will also be offered in kits that include one of these lenses. For full pricing details, see the press release below.

###

TIME TO LEVEL UP: CANON ANNOUNCES EOS R7 AND EOS R10, THE FIRST EOS R-SERIES CAMERAS WITH APS-C IMAGING SENSORS

New RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM and RF-S18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM Standard Zoom Lenses Also Announced 

MELVILLE, NY, May 24, 2022 – Canon U.S.A., Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, announced today the launch of the new EOS R7 and EOS R10 camera bodies, Canon’s first EOS R-series models with smaller-size APS-C imaging sensor.

Ideal for hobbyists and general photography enthusiasts, the EOS R7 is the quintessential camera to take your photography to the next level. It is a powerful camera choice for those seeking an upgrade to their travel and vacation photos or to capture life-long family memories while opening a new world of creative and professional possibilities. The EOS R10 is perfect for content creators looking for a camera option to capture high-quality action videos and images of sports, wildlife, and motorsports.

As the market share leader for mirrorless cameras in the United States during Q1 of 20221, Canon looks to solidify their position with the addition of new offerings within the EOS R lineup. EOS R7 and EOS R10 provide enhanced video functions and accessories, such as the new multifunction shoe with EOS R7, while still maintaining a high-level ease of use. With a robust mirrorless system at their core, these cameras provide users with a powerful telephoto reach through both still image and video due to the 1.6x crop factor that comes with APS-C sensor cameras.   

In addition to its compact size and ease of use, the EOS R7 and EOS R10 also feature:

  • 32 million pixels (EOS R7) and 24 million pixels (EOS R10), APS-C size image sensor
  • Autofocus (AF): subject detection inherited from EOS R3
  • Up to 15 frames per second (FPS) mechanical shutter
  • First Canon APS-C camera with up to 7.0 stops Coordinated Image Stabilization
  • Dual memory card slots (EOS R7 only)
  • Full width 4K video recording at 60p (EOS R7 only), 30p and 24p
  • Record each clip over thirty (30) minutes2
  • Up to 30FPS with electronic shutter (EOS R7 only)
  • Dust and moisture resistant (EOS R7 only)
  • In-body image stabilization (EOS R7 only)

Alongside the camera bodies, Canon will release new RF-S lenses – a series of RF-mount lenses that are optimized for the smaller APS-C sensor size of the new EOS R camera system. Marked as the RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM and RF-S18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM lenses, these will be the standard zoom lenses for the EOS R7 and EOS R10 cameras. The RF-S 18-45mm provides an 18-45mm focal length, but users will experience a field of view equivalent to 29-72mm lens coverage on a full-frame camera. The RF-S18-150mm lens is a longer-range standard zoom, equivalent to 29-240mm lens coverage on a full frame. While ideal for the new EOS R10 and EOS R7 APS-C sized sensor bodies, these lenses can be used for any R-series camera.

​​​Price & Availability

The Canon EOS R10 camera body will be available for an estimated retail price of $979.993. The Canon RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM lens with the EOS R10 will have an estimated retail price of $1,099.003. The Canon RF-S18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM lens with the EOS R10 will have an estimated retail price of $1,379.003.

The Canon EOS R7 camera body will be available for an estimated retail price $1,499.003. The Canon RF-S18-150mm lens F3.5-6.3 IS STM with the EOS R7 will have an estimated retail price of $1,899.003.

The RF-S18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM lens will be available for an estimated retail price $479.003, while the RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM lens will have an estimated retail price of $299.993. All products will be available in late 2022.

For more information, please visit usa.canon.com.

1 Source: The NPD Group/Retail Tracking Service, U.S., Jan. – March 2022 combined.

2 Video may stop due to battery level, card capacity, or internal temperature.

3 Specifications, availability and prices are subject to change without notice. Actual prices are set by individual dealers and may vary

###

The post Canon Introduces EOS R7 And EOS R10 APS-C Sensor Cameras appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/eSl9Cqy

Photo By Holly Jansen

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Iceland Photographer” by Holly Jansen. Location: South Coast of Iceland.

“The isolation of this photographer helped to capture the scale and size of the Icelandic glacier,” explains Jansen.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Holly Jansen appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/b1A7GMj

Monday, May 23, 2022

Photo By Jeff Nigro

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Reflection Lake” by Jeff Nigro. Location: Mount Rainier National Park, Washington.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Jeff Nigro appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/24VGB9j

A favorite angle from which I love to make photographs is above my subject looking down. A favorite angle from which I love to make photographs is from down low looking up or across. Wait…these concepts contradict each other! How can both be favorites if they’re opposites? What it boils down to is based on one of my favorite ways to answer any photo question I’m asked: It depends. Is soft light better than harsh light? It depends. Is a wide-open aperture better than a closed-down one? It depends. Should I use a wide or telephoto to make that image? It depends.

With regards to the elevated point from where I make a photo, the higher up I can get, the more unique the view as most images tend to be made while the photographer stands. Reflect upon many of the images you’ve made in the past. How were you positioned when you pressed the shutter? I’d wager a lot of money that the majority were made while you stood in front of your tripod. This being the case, if you could do something to apply a unique angle to a commonly photographed subject, the image will stand out. Let’s look at some of the variables that need to fall into place.

When you add a unique twist to your images, viewers will study them longer as they try to decipher what makes the photo different. The longer someone looks at an image, the more it’s remembered. There’s a greater chance the viewer wants to know more about it and how it was created. All this adds to the possibility of greater name recognition, a potential photo sale, a possible future job or another grand happening.

Get High On Your Photography

Just because a photographer gets to an elevated position, it doesn’t ensure a good photo. It may be made from a unique position, but does it work? When you get to an elevated position, don’t just start shooting. Study the terrain and surroundings. As this angle will be new to you, take a look at the nuances it provides and exploit the possibilities. Study how shadows and subjects play off each other and incorporate them into the composition. Look to see how the perspective changes and photograph what’s distinctive. Use the rule of thirds in composing your photos as you would if you were on the ground.

Regardless of the location from where you go to gain height, go back at different times of the day to see how the light changes. Use these different lighting conditions to your advantage. You’ll find that a specific time works out best based on light direction, angles, shadows, highlights and more. Although I predominately write about nature photography, if you do any street photography, make photos from a tall building and look down onto the street. Street scenes tend to work well using a high perspective. Climb a tree, photograph from a bridge or even climb a ladder. It’s not always a matter of how much elevation you gain, but how you use the elevation to your advantage.

Get Down And Into It

The primary reason I like to get low is to control the background. Look at the backgrounds in the reference photo of the side-by-side geese. In the image on the left, the background is close to the goose in that I was standing when I made that image, it remains partially in focus. In the photo on the right, because I’m on my belly, the background now falls much farther away from the goose, hence it becomes a blur of color that allows the subject to come forward in the image.

The second reason I love to get down and dirty when I photograph wildlife is I like to be at the subject’s eye level. When the viewer can see right into the eyes of the animal, there’s a stronger connection. It becomes more real and the viewer can identify with it more easily. The connotation of “not looking down on me” disappears and the animal takes on much greater significance. When people are engaged in conversation, it’s done at eye level. If one person stands, so does the other. If one person sits, so does the other. This occurs so both become equals in the conversation.

Ongoing, before you fully extend all three legs of your tripod, evaluate every situation. You may simply want to set the camera onto the tripod head, squat down low and sit in front of the rig. Make some photos from down low. After that, look around the environment. Is there something that provides an elevated position from where you can photograph? If so, go explore it. Think about all those options and ask yourself, will the image be better if I get low or go up high? If you answer, “It depends,” you’re doing your job!

To learn more about this subject, join me on a photo safari to Tanzania. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com to get more information.

The post Shoot Low Or Shoot High? It Depends. appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/VvH694F

Sunday, May 22, 2022

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “The Calm Before The Storm” by Christopher Mills. Location: Littleton, Maine.

“A huge shelf cloud forms above the backroads of Littleton, Maine,” describes Mills. “As it went over, it was so still and quiet before we got hit with heavy rain and wind. It was really eerie.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Christopher Mills appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/7MklV89

Saturday, May 21, 2022

Photo By Clayton Peoples

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Stormy Sawtooths” by Clayton Peoples. Location: Sawtooth Wilderness, Idaho.

“We took a summer road trip that took us through Grand Teton, Yellowstone, Glacier, and the Sawtooth Mountains,” says Peoples. “In this particular image, storm clouds are billowing above the Sawtooth Range, reflected in a pond.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Clayton Peoples appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/Vsdwz7N

Friday, May 20, 2022

Photo By Stan Bysshe

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Noisy Young Tern” by Stan Bysshe. Location: Long Island, New York.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Stan Bysshe appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/kVRCBje

Congratulations to Christopher Baker for winning the Abstract Wildlife Assignment with the image, “Peacock Patterns.” See more of Baker’s photography at cscottphoto.smugmug.com.

View the winning image and a selection of submissions in the gallery below. And be sure to check out our current photography assignment here and enter your best shots!

[See image gallery at www.outdoorphotographer.com]

The post Abstract Wildlife Assignment Winner Christopher Baker appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/4frEoRz

Thursday, May 19, 2022

Photo By Tom Elenbaas

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Disappearing Moon” by Tom Elenbaas. Location: Death Valley National Park, California.

“My brother and I made a trip to Death Valley in May to photograph the total lunar eclipse,” says Elenbaas. “Our original plan was to capture the entire arc of the moon from rise to set, but Mother Nature had other plans. A heavy cloud cover developed right after sunset, but we remained optimistic. The weather apps we were using predicted there would be a break in the clouds around 1 a.m., shortly before the start of the eclipse, and that’s exactly what happened. Although there were still heavy clouds all around, a window opened up right where the moon was traversing the night sky.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Tom Elenbaas appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/tTwpUnO

Wednesday, May 18, 2022

Photo By Harry Lichtman

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Spring Bloom” by Harry Lichtman. Location: White Mountain National Forest, New Hampshire.

“Watching the spring greens creep up the mountainsides in the White Mountains is much like watching fall foliage moving in the opposite direction,” explains Lichtman. “The mix of fresh and vibrant greens and yellows mixed with red buds can be quite striking. I used the alternating diagonals of this drainage with the backlit buds and foliage to create a quasi-abstract of this forest scene before the foliage became too thick to discern the tree trunks below. In this instance, strong contrast lighting worked best with a polarizer.”

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By Harry Lichtman appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/SwpatEi

Tuesday, May 17, 2022

Photo By garynack

Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Cliff View” by garynack. Location: Big Timber, California.

Want to get your images in the running for a Photo of the Day feature? Photo of the Day is chosen from various galleries, including AssignmentsGalleries and Contests. Assignments have weekly winners that are featured on the website homepage, Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. To get your photos in the running, all you have to do is submit them.

The post Photo Of The Day By garynack appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/pSimx2b
Example of a black-and-white print

Figure 1. The black-and-white print requires vision, technique and, more than anything else, practice.

Black-and-white printing is an art unto itself. There’s a lot to consider, both creatively and technically. Without color to lean on, we must put more thought into how we render our image’s textures, patterns and contrast. We might need to dodge and burn to direct the viewer’s attention either toward or away from certain parts of our composition. We want to know which paper or other medium will best express our vision. We must calibrate our monitors and consider the use of profiles.

Like with any craft, we practice and pay our dues through trial and error as we get familiar with what works and what doesn’t in order to master the black-and-white print. There’s no way around it; you can’t just read an article like this and walk away making perfect prints. I’ll do my best to make things easier, though, as I have a bit of experience printing for myself and for others.

For over 15 years now, I’ve been teaching digital workflow. In that time, I’ve grown to be a firm believer that printing is one of the most important—if not the most important—phases of a photographer’s workflow.

There are so many reasons why printing matters. I’ve witnessed that the photographers who regularly make prints look more critically through their bodies of work than the photographers who simply intend to post low-resolution versions of their images on social media. Photographers who print consider consistency in style and how images will exhibit together. They pay closer attention to how the details render, if sharpness is perfectly applied, if noise is distracting and if chromatic aberration needs to be removed (which can still be an issue for black-and-white imagery).

Photographers who print have at their fingertips a feedback loop about their technical abilities that other photographers do not. Thus, those who print tend to evolve faster technically. I believe that printing is so important to a photographer’s workflow and growth that I started Bradley Print Services, and for over eight years now, I’ve been printing for other photographers, helping them curate their work, developing their images and making the best prints and portfolios possible. This puts me in the unique position to share with you what I think are the top five things to know when it comes to black-and-white printing techniques.

1. Choosing The Right Starting Point

Screen shot of Lightroom's profile browser

Figure 2. Before starting any black-and-white development, try looking first to what your Profile Browser has to offer.

With RAW file workflow, and especially black-and-white RAW file workflow, the success of one’s developments is often determined by the starting point. By this, I mean that it’s not uncommon for a photographer to fully develop their image as a color photograph and then convert that developed image to black-and-white as an afterthought. My first suggestion: Start from the beginning. If you have already developed for color, most often it helps to reset your development and start over when developing for black-and-white.

My process for black-and-white developing is very different from how I develop color images. I can push contrast, shadows and highlight detail in all sorts of directions in black-and-white that I can’t in color. In fact, color often constrains what I can do in these areas because it is so easy for people to pick up on colors that aren’t natural. I’ve found that if I develop in color first when my goal is a black-and-white image, it sets me back.

Where should you start? In Lightroom Classic (assuming that’s your tool of choice), look to the Profile Browser found in the Develop module’s Basic panel. At the top of the panel under Treatment, you’ll find Profile. Click on the small four-squared icon on the right to open the Profile Browser. There, you have 17 different black-and-white profiles from which to choose (see Figure 2). Some are simply numbered B&W 01 or B&W 02, while others simulate the use of color filters and are named things like B&W Green Filter, B&W Red Filter and so on. Starting with a profile that is close to the look you want makes the process much faster.

Beyond your starting point, it’s sometimes challenging to know where you can go stylistically with an image or a set of images. In this case, I suggest you explore the Presets panel in the Develop Module (Figure 3).

Black-and-white presets in Lightroom

Figure 3. After choosing the right black-and-white profile, explore the Presets panel for a few creative possibilities.

Presets are a different kind of “starting point.” Beyond a more basic Profile, a Preset is a saved developmental configuration. Meaning, you can move the sliders around in the Develop module’s Basic panel, create a look that you like and want to repeat, and then save that configuration as your own Preset. (To do so, simply hit the + symbol at the top of the Presets panel once you’ve made your adjustments and name your preset.)

The Presets panel includes several pre-configured presets offering a slew of developmental ideas. Look for the B&W section shown in Figure 3 to find 10 different black-and-white possibilities. Beyond these, there is an abundance of presets that you can find and download on the web. Most of what you find costs a bit of money, but they might be a great way to fuel new ideas. Personally, I suggest saving a bunch of your own presets as you go. Doing so will help the creative possibilities flow from you, which I think is invaluable.

2. Lightroom’s Black & White Panel

After you’ve settled on a starting point for your development, you can begin to fine tune it. Even though there are many paths to fine tuning, the B&W panel offers a lot of creative control.

Don’t let the color sliders in the B&W panel fool you. You’re adjusting a monochrome image, but it still has all its color information, and this is what’s used to manipulate your image’s tonality after it’s converted to black-and-white.

There are a couple ways to approach the panel. You can simply move the sliders back and forth with each individual color panel. Or you can use the TAT tool. The TAT tool, or Targeted Adjustment Tool, can be found in the upper left corner of the B&W panel (see Figure 4). Simply click on the TAT icon, and your cursor turns into a crosshair.

Image illustrating Lighroom's Targeted Adjustment Tool control panel

Figure 4. In the B&W panel, try using the Targeted Adjustment Tool (TAT) to shift tones in your image. You’ll find it more effective than moving one color slider at a time.

Then look for a tone on your image that you want to darken or lighten. To darken a tone, click on the tone and drag your mouse down. To lighten, click and drag up. Figures 5A, B and C below show the result of different adjustments.

Figure 5A. Yellow and green channels are darkened.

Figure 5B. Yellow and green channels are brightened.

Figure 5C. No adjustment to yellow and green channels.

I recommend the TAT tool because usually the colors in your image are actually a mix of different colors. You’ll find that when using the TAT tool, it often moves more than one slider. Moving one slider at a time is not only less efficient, but it can also create some unsightly tonal separation artifacts.

Pro Tip: You can also shift the tones of your black-and-white images by playing with the White Balance sliders in the Basic panel. Try moving them around to see how it’s affecting your highlights and shadows.

3. Toning Your Black & White Images

Look toward the Color Grading panel to tone your black-and-white images. You can create warm tone or sepia tone effects, cool tone or cyanotype effects, or you can do split toning. In case you haven’t upgraded Lightroom Classic recently, toning used to be performed with the Split Toning panel, but that was recently replaced with the Color Grading panel, which offers much more control when needed.

Here’s how to create a sepia-like effect. At the top of the Color Grading panel, you’ll see Adjust followed by a series of circle icons (see Figure 6). The first icon of three little circles allows you to see a color wheel for your shadows, midtones and highlights. The next three circles take you through the shadows, midtones and highlights individually, and the final circle allows you to adjust the color globally. The global adjustment is the one you want. Simply change the Hue to 35 and move the Saturation slider up to taste. The Luminance slider just lightens or darkens the image’s luminance values.

Lightroom Color Grading panel

Figure 6. In the Color Grading panel, you can target your shadows, midtones and highlights separately or globally.

Cool toning an image isn’t much different. Change the Hue slider to 220 and move the Saturation slider to taste. Figures 7A and B below show both the warm and cool toning effects I described.

Warm color toning example

Figure 7A. Warm toning.

Cool toning effect.

Figure 7B. Cool toning.

Split toning example

Figure 7C. Split toning with different adjustments for highlights, midtones and shadows.

4. When To Use (And Not Use) Color Profiles

Using color profiles is an essential part of creating consistency in digital color printing. More specifically, we must adhere to principles in ICC color management to help ensure that the image you’ve developed on your display translates accurately to your final print.

The trick is to use ICC color profiles with everything along your workflow device chain. Your monitor should be calibrated and displaying colors with an ICC profile. You should use profiles made for the specific printer you’re using as well as the specific paper you’re running through it. You’ll notice that the key term here is ICC “color” profile. Since we’re talking about making black-and-white prints, this doesn’t always apply.

Whenever a client orders a black-and-white print, I don’t use any color profiles, and ICC workflow is of no use. Instead, I turn off color management and turn on my print driver’s black-and-white mode. This turns off the color ink cartridges and uses only the black and gray inks to do the work.

This is such an important trick to printing in black-and-white. If you use your normal printing workflow and ICC color profiles, some color inks will likely be used—even if all the color has been removed from your image during development. This could add an unwanted toning effect and even metameric failure if the print is viewed at certain angles. So, again, turn off the color to keep your black-and-whites neutral.

Black-and-white printing color management settings in Lightroom

Figure 8. When printing in black-and-white, turn off your color inks by letting your printer manage color.

To turn off Color Management in Lightroom, look at the Print Job panel in the Print module in Lightroom Classic (other programs have this feature as well). About halfway down the panel, you’ll see Color Management, and just below that, you’ll see Profile (see Figure 8). Click and select Managed by Printer. Then refer to your printer’s manual to learn how to select its black-and-white mode. We use Epson printers at Bradley Print Services, so I choose Epson’s Advanced B&W Photo mode in the Print dialogue, as shown in Figure 9.

Black-and-white printing printer settings

Figure 9. Most printers have a black-and-white mode that uses only the printer’s black and gray inks. With my Epson driver shown here, I select Advanced B&W Photo mode.

What if you color-toned your monochrome image? In that case, you should not turn off color management. When printing color-toned images, instead of selecting Managed by Printer in the Print Job panel, select the color profile for your printer and paper you’re using.

Digital printing is complicated, and I may have confused some of you more than I’ve helped when talking about “ICC stuff” and “color profile whatever.” But no matter who makes your prints, understanding how ICC color management works is extremely important, and I encourage you to learn more. Check out the four-part article series “Modern Printmaking” I wrote for Outdoor Photographer a few years ago at outdoorphotographer.com. It elaborates on color profiles and ICC color management and covers other printing topics in more depth.

5. Know Your Papers For B&W Printing

Papers are often overlooked by photographers, surprisingly. Your choice of paper can help define the style of your work as much as other critical choices you make, like whether to present your work in color versus black-and-white. Printing a well-executed and well-developed black-and-white image on a lovely fine-art cotton paper versus a cheap paper that the local drug store carries sends a signal to your audience. With all the effort you put into your craft, I suggest you spend the time looking for the right paper that best represents who you are as an artist and your vision for your work.

Where do you begin? You can start in one of a couple places. If you’re printing at home, buy paper sample packs. Most manufacturers sell them just so photographers can get a feel for what the options are. In addition to the premium papers offered by your printer manufacturer, some of the paper makers I suggest trying are Hahnemühle, Canson, Moab and Ilford.

If you don’t print at home and want to work with a lab, ask if they provide paper samples. I offer my clients a paper sample packet for a nominal charge. You can send us a file that we will print on five different papers, so you can see how that image translates with each.


YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE

Converting To B&W In Lightroom

Explore the Profile Browser in Lightroom Classic and take a playful approach to black-and-white workflow. Read now.


Whichever path you choose, there are a few things I suggest you consider when looking at a paper. Is the paper glossy, semigloss or matte in finish? Is it thick and heavy or thin and flimsy? Is the surface of the paper smooth, rough or textured? Does the paper feel heavy or light? From what is the paper made? Some papers are made from alpha cellulose (various plant fibers), and some are made with 100 percent cotton (which is the preference of many fine-art photographers). Other papers are made with a mix of materials. Hahnemühle, for example, has a new Natural Line of papers that combines different percentages of cotton and alpha cellulose with hemp, bamboo or agave.

There is a lot to consider in finding the right paper, and you won’t know which one is right for you until you see your work on them, hold them and even smell them. Some papers will feel elegant and others cheap. It’s a totally subjective thing. All I want you to do is distinguish between what’s refined and elegant versus what’s cheap and unmemorable.

Personally, I love printing my black-and-white imagery on cotton rag paper, specifically the highly regarded Hahnemühle Photo Rag 308. Monochrome imagery looks lovely on it. Others I suggest you try include Canson Platine Fibre Rag, Hahnemühle Photo Rag Baryta and Moab Entrada Rag. All are excellent choices.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Though I hope these tips are helpful—and even if I gave you another five or 10 more—nothing can replace the time you put into the practice of making prints. Whether you print at home or with a lab, start printing and then print some more. It will help you grow as an artist. It will offer you a deeper understanding of your technical abilities. As you gather more and more prints, it will begin to show you how your work fits together stylistically or thematically. The closer you are to achieving that insight, the closer you are to showing your work and exhibiting.

The post 5 Tips To Master B&W Printing appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.



from Outdoor Photographer https://ift.tt/EvCVQAT

Search This Blog

Popular Posts

Blog Archive

Powered by Blogger.

Pages

About MeHey, this is my blog, so I have to say something about myself. Sometimes it is hard to

Recent Posts